Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

  When people think of autumn in Tokyo, the first image that comes to mind is surely the Ginkgo(icho) Avenue of Meiji Jingu Gaien . Four rows of ginkgo trees stand in perfect alignment on both sides of the walkway, stretching straight into the distance. With two rows along the roadway and two rows inside the pedestrian path, this distinctive double-layered arrangement emphasizes the perspective lines, creating the sensation of being drawn into a golden tunnel as you walk. The most beautiful period usually arrives in late November . The leaves take on their deepest golden hue, softly reflecting the sunlight so that the entire street seems wrapped in a warm golden glow. But precisely because of that beauty, Gaien in autumn is always packed with people. Cafés have long lines, the sidewalks are constantly crowded, and the crosswalks are filled with people as if the traffic light were permanently red. You’ll often see security staff shouting themselves hoarse—“Please don’t stop in t...

  Just a 20-minute walk from central Asakusa , the grounds of Tamahime Inari Shrine are now lined with dozens of stalls selling shoes and leather goods , drawing large crowds of visitors. This is the Kutsu no Megumi Matsuri Ichi (kutsu means “shoes” in Japanese) , a two-day footwear and leather market held from today, the 22nd, through the 23rd.It is a long-running event that began in 1974, hosted by the down-to-earth Tamahime Inari Shrine in Tokyo’s old downtown district. A Shrine Loved by Shoemakers For decades, this area was home to clusters of leather workshops and shoe factories. After World War II, the wider Asakusa district grew into one of Japan’s densest concentrations of small shoe and leather workshops, and Kiyokawa became the everyday living quarter for many of those craftsmen—simple homes that often doubled as their workspaces. Although the number of factories has decreased over the years, the district still remains one of Japan’s leading production hubs for lea...

Today is November 15, the peak of Japan’s Shichi-Go-San season. If you visit a shrine around this time, you’ll notice families lined up for blessings, children dressed in colorful kimono, and a warm, festive atmosphere that feels uniquely Japanese. “Seven-Five-Three”: A Name as Literal as It Is Charming In Japanese, Shichi-Go-San is literally just a string of numbers: Seven-Five-Three. Yet anyone in Japan instantly knows that these numbers refer to a special children's celebration. Traditionally, the ages were: 3-year-olds (boys and girls) 5-year-old boys 7-year-old girls These categories came from ancient coming-of-age rituals : Kamioki (Age 3): Children began growing out their hair. Hakamagi (Age 5): Boys wore a hakama for the first time. Obitoki (Age 7): Girls began wearing a formal obi belt. Modern families often still follow this pattern, but more people now focus on the spirit of wishing for a child’s healthy growth , regardless of strict age or ...

  Just after midnight, as November 12 begins,  the first drum of the night echoes through Ootori Shrine in Senzoku, near Asakusa in Tokyo ’ s Taito Ward . It marks the opening of  Tori no Ichi (literally, ‘ Market of the Rooster ’) , one of Japan ’ s most famous autumn festivals. The “ Day of the Rooster ” and the Lucky Market Tori no Ichi is held every November on the so-called “ Day of the Rooster ” ( Tori no Hi ). This day is determined by the traditional Chinese zodiac calendar. The zodiac consists of 12 animals that rotate over a 12-year cycle. The same system also applies to days — each day is assigned a zodiac animal, and every 12 days, the “ Day of the Rooster ” comes again. Because of this, some years have two or even three “ Days of the Rooster ” in November. In 2025, the first ( Ichi no Tori ) falls on November 12, and the second ( Ni no Tori ) on November 24. Tonight, until midnight, marks the very first Tori no Ichi of the year. Ootori Shrine ...

Among Tokyo’s 23 wards, there’s one area often called the most unremarkable . That’s Kita Ward — literally “North.” Kita = North. Simple as that. But there’s a reason behind that plain name. As the name suggests, Kita marks the northern gateway to Tokyo . Bordering Saitama Prefecture , it has long been considered the entrance to Edo — the historical Tokyo — since samurai times. The Northern Gateway: Oji Station At the heart of Kita Ward stands Oji Station , one of the city’s northernmost transport hubs. This time, I visited Oji on an autumn day to see what kind of charm this quiet part of Tokyo holds. The Slopes of Oji Tell a Story Step out of Oji Station, and you’ll immediately notice the slope.　Here, the flat streets from downtown Tokyo suddenly rise, reminding you of the city’s dramatic terrain. Today it’s neatly paved, but in the past, this was known as the beginning of a difficult hill road. At the top lies Asukayama Park , created in the 18th century by the eighth ...

In October, a rather surprising event became a talking point in London: sumo wrestling  was held at the music temple, the Royal Albert Hall . The five-day tournament filled the venue every day, and more than a few visitors said, “ I didn ’ t know sumo was like this. ” So for anyone who became curious about this unusual sport from Japan ,　here is a simple guide — just enough to enjoy it from day one. What is Sumo? A Very Short History Sumo is often called Japan ’ s “ national sport ” . Its roots go back  over 1,500 years , and by around 1,000 years ago, it already had a form very close to what we see today. In the Edo period (17th – 19th century), sumo grew as public entertainment, while still keeping the rituals of a sacred ceremony. Modern professional sumo inherited both sides: the ritual beauty  and  the competitive sport . That mix is what makes sumo truly unique. Professional sumo is called  ōzumō , but there is also student and amateur sum...