As cities evolve, they often begin to resemble one another, shaped by familiar patterns of development. Yet some places retain a character of their own—and continue to be chosen, generation after generation. Ochanomizu is one of them. View of the Kanda River and railway tracks from Hijiri Bridge The area around JR Ochanomizu Station is defined by its complex terrain. With landmarks like Hijiri Bridge and the steep slopes running along the Kanda River, the neighborhood offers a vivid sense of Tokyo’s layered geography. Simply walking through it, you begin to understand just how intricate the city really is. And then, along those slopes overlooking the river valley, an unexpected scene unfolds. Shops with walls covered entirely in guitars. Showcases filled with vintage brass instruments. Out front, young musicians pick up instruments and play—faces serious, completely absorbed in the moment. Even today, Ochanomizu remains one of the largest and most concentrated musical instrume...
At this time of year, Halloween usually brings to mind the charming sight of children dressed in costumes, going door to door and collecting candy from neighbors—a scene familiar across the U.S. and Europe. In Japan, however, things are a bit different. Halloween here has occasionally turned into a social issue, and today, October 31st, Tokyo’s Shibuya district is on high alert. Halloween in Japan: A Relatively New Tradition Halloween only started gaining widespread recognition in Japan in the late 1990s and early 2000s. It was first introduced through events at Tokyo Disneyland and shopping centers, mainly as a costume party for children. From my own experience, it wasn’t very well known around 20 years ago. These days, as the season approaches, streets are decorated with familiar pumpkins, ghost plushies, and Halloween-themed colors. The imagery is firmly established in popular knowledge. But in the 2010s, Halloween in Japan began to take on a new character. Young people and ...