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The Yamanoue (Hilltop) Hotel: A Story in Progress Above Tokyo

Tokyo’s Kanda Surugadai and Ochanomizu area is surprisingly hilly for a city center. The Kanda River carved out a valley here, and the plateaus on either side create a landscape filled with steep slopes and winding streets. It almost feels like a small canyon tucked into the middle of Tokyo. As you walk from the busy streets near the station up the hill, you can feel the atmosphere shift. The change in elevation is sudden, and even today, you can clearly sense the natural terrain beneath the modern city. For a moment, you realize—this was once a hill. A Building at the Top of the Hill At the top of one of these slopes stands a quiet, dignified building, carrying the weight of time. The Yamanoue Hotel—its name literally meaning “on top of the hill”—sits there almost as if it has always belonged to the landscape itself. More than just a place to stay, it feels like a memory of the neighborhood made visible. From Social Facility to Historic Hotel The building was originally co...
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Ochanomizu: Tokyo’s Living Instrument District in the Digital Age

As cities evolve, they often begin to resemble one another, shaped by familiar patterns of development. Yet some places retain a character of their own—and continue to be chosen, generation after generation. Ochanomizu is one of them. View of the Kanda River and railway tracks from Hijiri Bridge The area around JR Ochanomizu Station is defined by its complex terrain. With landmarks like Hijiri Bridge and the steep slopes running along the Kanda River, the neighborhood offers a vivid sense of Tokyo’s layered geography. Simply walking through it, you begin to understand just how intricate the city really is. And then, along those slopes overlooking the river valley, an unexpected scene unfolds. Shops with walls covered entirely in guitars. Showcases filled with vintage brass instruments. Out front, young musicians pick up instruments and play—faces serious, completely absorbed in the moment. Even today, Ochanomizu remains one of the largest and most concentrated musical instrume...

The Town You Reached by Mistake? — But Surprisingly Fascinating: Asakusabashi

When people think of famous sightseeing districts in Tokyo, Asakusa is usually one of the first places that comes to mind. Visitors from around the world come to see the giant red lantern of Kaminarimon and the historic temple Senso-ji . Amid all this, there is a small but familiar “Tokyo moment” that people sometimes talk about. “I meant to go to Asakusa, but I accidentally ended up in Asakusabashi .” Because the station names sound similar, visitors occasionally get off at the wrong stop. When they step out of the station, instead of a bustling tourist area they find themselves in a calm business district. Looking around, they start wondering: “Where is Kaminarimon?” There is no need to be disappointed. Asakusa is only a few minutes away by train. And there is something else. Asakusabashi itself is actually a surprisingly interesting neighborhood. It may not have many flashy tourist attractions. But the area is filled with the atmosphere of Tokyo’s old downtown, a hist...

A Midnight Elevator Rescue at Tokyo Skytree

Early spring in Tokyo. Around Tokyo Skytree , the crowds are as lively as ever. The plaza and nearby riverside paths are filled with visitors, many of them looking up at the 634-meter tower that has become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. If You Want to See Cherry Blossoms Now: Discovering Kawazu-zakura In a recent column, I wrote about the early-blooming Kawazu cherry blossoms near Tokyo Skytree . When I visited the area on February 27, many people were trying to capture the same photo: pink blossoms in the foreground, with the tall tower rising behind them. Standing there, you could hear not only Japanese but English, Chinese, and several other languages drifting through the air. It was a reminder that this landmark continues to draw visitors from all over the world. As people looked up at the tower that day, however, most of them probably didn’t know that only a few days earlier something unusual had happened inside it. A rescue that lasted until midnight The inc...

On a Spring Day in Tokyo — and the Pollen in the Air

A Date on the Calendar Today is March 3rd in Japan — Hinamatsuri, Girls’ Day, a traditional celebration of girls’ health and happiness. Peach blossoms, ornamental dolls, and pink sweets quietly signal the arrival of the season. And yet, on the streets of Tokyo, spring often looks different. Masks cover faces. Sneezing breaks the air. Runny noses, congestion, itchy eyes, tears with nothing to do with sentiment — these, too, mark the month. It is pollen season. Cedar pollen has been drifting through the air since February and, in many regions, will continue into May. For many, it is more than a minor irritation. It is exhausting. Concentration slips. Sleep falters. Productivity quietly declines. The Photo Everyone Recognized 奥多摩走ってるけど花粉えぐすぎて草  pic.twitter.com/3XEWe3TLrs — ランエボっち_たか㌠ (@CZ4A_taka)  February 28, 2026   Recently, a photo began circulating on social media. Taken by a driver passing through Okutama , on the capital’s mountainous western edge, the photo was shot...

If You Want to See Cherry Blossoms Now: Discovering Kawazu-zakura

Many Japanese guidebooks feature the iconic image of cherry blossoms—the familiar sight of pale pink petals filling the landscape from late March to early April. But it is now the end of February. If you are visiting Japan at this time of year, you might assume it is simply too early for sakura and resign yourself to missing them. Before the Cherry Blossoms: Discovering Japan’s Plum Season In a previous column, I introduced Japanese plum blossoms, those modest yet beautiful harbingers of early spring. While Japan’s flower-viewing culture is wonderfully diverse, cherry blossoms hold a uniquely special place in people’s hearts. Here is the good news: just as there are many varieties of plum trees that bloom over an extended season, the same is true for cherry blossoms. The sakura season is not limited to April. Sakura Is More Than Somei-yoshino The scene described above was captured today, February 28, along the Kyu-Nakagawa River in Tokyo’s Edogawa, where dozens of vibrant cherry trees ...

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Ebisu – A Neighborhood Blessed by Gods and Beer

Among Tokyo’s many stylish districts, Ebisu has a special charm. Perched on hilly slopes, the area gathers sophisticated shopping complexes and international restaurants, while also being home to many foreign residents. It is a place where comfort and high-class living, everyday life and a touch of the extraordinary, mingle harmoniously. Ebisu is also conveniently adjacent to Shibuya and Daikanyama, making it easy to access and explore as part of a day in Tokyo. When deciding where to have dinner in central Tokyo, Ebisu is a neighborhood worth remembering. Let’s take a closer look at what makes it so distinctive. The Origin of the Name “Ebisu” Ebisu ( えびす ) is one of Japan’s “Seven Lucky Gods,” a group that includes deities from Buddhism, Hindu traditions, and Japan’s own ancient beliefs. He is depicted holding a fishing rod and a sea bream, symbolizing prosperity in business and bountiful catches from the sea. To this day, Ebisu remains a beloved figure. And yet, the direc...

Why Do So Many Japanese Retirees Become Soba Masters?

SOBAGIRI RAKUJYO In Japan, there’s a curious and often heartwarming trend. After years of commuting, overtime, and corporate life, some Japanese salarymen retire and suddenly… take up soba-making by hand. Their friends chuckle. Their kids roll their eyes. “Seriously? Dad’s becoming a soba chef now?” But behind the jokes lies something very real: the quiet joy of working with your hands, and the meditative rhythm of turning buckwheat flour into something deeply nourishing. What Is Soba? Soba noodles are thin, light noodles made mainly from buckwheat flour, often mixed with a bit of wheat flour for elasticity. A common blend is 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat, known in Japan as ni-hachi soba . Soba lovers often debate the ideal flour ratio like wine lovers debate grape blends. You can eat soba hot in a savory broth or cold with dipping sauce — it's enjoyed all year but plays an especially symbolic role on New Year’s Eve, when toshikoshi soba is eaten to mark the transition to th...

The Most "Unassuming" Ward in Tokyo? Exploring Kita Ward, Oji, Autumn in Asukayama Park

Among Tokyo’s 23 wards, there’s one area often called the most unremarkable . That’s Kita Ward — literally “North.” Kita = North. Simple as that. But there’s a reason behind that plain name. As the name suggests, Kita marks the northern gateway to Tokyo . Bordering Saitama Prefecture , it has long been considered the entrance to Edo — the historical Tokyo — since samurai times. The Northern Gateway: Oji Station At the heart of Kita Ward stands Oji Station , one of the city’s northernmost transport hubs. This time, I visited Oji on an autumn day to see what kind of charm this quiet part of Tokyo holds. The Slopes of Oji Tell a Story Step out of Oji Station, and you’ll immediately notice the slope. Here, the flat streets from downtown Tokyo suddenly rise, reminding you of the city’s dramatic terrain. Today it’s neatly paved, but in the past, this was known as the beginning of a difficult hill road. At the top lies Asukayama Park , created in the 18th century by the eighth ...