Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

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Okachimachi Jewelry Town: Tokyo’s Hidden World of Gems

After enjoying street food and the lively buzz of Ameyoko Market in Ueno, you wander through the crowds—and suddenly, the atmosphere changes. Small signs. Practical display cases. From the ground floor to the upper stories of narrow buildings: jewels, jewels, and more jewels. Welcome to Jewelry Town Okachimachi , one of the largest jewelry districts in Japan and a rare sight even by global standards. Around 2,000 businesses connected to the jewelry trade are packed into this compact neighborhood. Retail jewelry shops sit next to wholesale dealers. Loose stones (uncut or unset gems), natural stone shops, workshops, repair studios, and buy-back specialists—all side by side. Everything related to jewelry exists here, tightly concentrated in just a few streets. Some of the local streets even have unofficial nicknames like Diamond Avenue , Sapphire Street , or Emerald Avenue (you won’t see them on Google Maps, but locals know). Nearby Okachimachi Panda Square r...

Asakusa in the Snow: Tokyo’s Rare White Surprise

Sunday, February 8. This morning, Tokyo woke up under a quiet blanket of snow. Around Kaminarimon Gate, Sensō-ji Temple, and the five-story pagoda in Asakusa, the usual crowds and vivid colors feel slightly muted today. Instead, the district is showing a softer, whiter side of itself. What’s falling isn’t the unpleasant, slushy snow mixed with rain. These are large, dry flakes drifting slowly through the air — what we call botan-yuki , “peony snow,” named after its big, fluffy shape. Many visitors are walking without umbrellas. Children reach out to catch the snow, some even trying to taste it, laughing as they go. It’s clear they’re enjoying a snowy Asakusa just as it is. When people think of Tokyo, snow usually isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. And it’s true — Tokyo is not a snow city. Winters are often sunny, even cold but clear. Still, anyone who lives here knows the feeling: Even when you think, “Maybe it won’t snow this year,” it usually does — at least for a few day...

Bean Throwing vs. Ehomaki Setsubun in Japan Today

February 3, Asakusa, Tokyo. At Sensō-ji Temple, famous figures throw roasted soybeans toward the crowd, praying for good health and protection from misfortune. This is mamemaki —bean throwing—one of the key rituals of Setsubun (節分), a traditional Japanese seasonal event. The word Setsubun literally means “the division of seasons.” Today, it refers to the day before the beginning of spring, usually around February 3. The origins of Setsubun can be traced back to ancient China, where rituals were performed to ward off evil spirits. After the custom reached Japan, similar practices were adopted at the imperial court during the Heian period (794–1185). At that time, a ritual called Tsuina was performed to expel harmful spirits. Modern Setsubun traditions are believed to have grown out of these ceremonies. Demon Slaying With Beans The most well-known Setsubun custom is mamemaki , or bean throwing. As beans are thrown, people chant “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi” — “Demons out, g...

Magatama: A Shape Japan Has Been Wearing for 7,000 Years

What We Mean by “Japanese Design” When people think of “Japanese design,” many images come to mind. Ukiyo-e prints, daruma dolls, maneki-neko, traditional patterns, or the kind of minimalism often associated with Zen. Most of these styles took shape between the medieval and early modern periods, developing into what we now recognize as a distinct Japanese aesthetic. But Japan also has designs that are far older. Some date back to a time before written records even existed—among the oldest forms of design in the country. A small, curved bead. A round shape with a hole, and a tail-like projection. It can look like a comma, or a crescent moon. This is the magatama. Most Japanese people recognize the shape instantly, even if they don’t know the name. It appears in school textbooks and museums, but also as jewelry or decorative motifs—so familiar that it’s hard to remember where you first saw it. A Shape Older Than Written History Magatama from around the 3rd century (Tokyo National Mu...

Yuyake Dandan: What Happens When a Beloved View Begins to Change

Yuyake Dandan, September 2025. A Shitamachi Street Between Daily Life and Tourism Yanaka Ginza is one of Tokyo’s best-known shitamachi shopping streets(a traditional downtown neighborhood shaped by everyday life).Sloping roads, old temples tucked between houses, cats wandering unhurriedly through narrow alleys. Along the street, prepared food shops and small confectioners sit side by side with stores selling traditional household goods, Asian crafts, and secondhand antiques. The Yanaka Antique Market at a local temple, showing how the area’s activity extends beyond the shopping street. Locals doing their daily shopping naturally mix with tourists. In recent years, the area has attracted growing attention as a place where visitors can experience a sense of “old Tokyo.” Guidebooks and social media have helped turn Yanaka Ginza into a familiar stop for travelers from abroad. The Gentle Appeal of the “Sunset Steps” Just before the gate marking the entrance to the sho...

Shibaura: A City Still in Progress, Just Beyond the Rainbow Bridge

In a previous article about Odaiba, I wrote about walking across the Rainbow Bridge. Odaiba: Tokyo’s Self-Conscious Playground, Worth a Second Look Once you reach the other side of that long walk, you arrive at today’s destination: Shibaura . After walking across the Rainbow Bridge, this is the view from Shibaura — Odaiba on the far shore, with the Fuji TV building standing out. Warehouses line the streets. There are few pedestrians, and the atmosphere feels a little lonely. And yet, this is very much central Tokyo. Shibaura is part of Minato Ward —one of the city’s most prestigious areas. Roppongi and Aoyama are not far away at all. Still, the scenery here feels strangely disconnected from the glittering, polished image many people associate with Tokyo. Shibaura: Almost Something, But Not Quite That doesn’t mean Shibaura is run-down. Far from it. Office buildings fill the area, and several well-known companies have their headquarters here. Land prices continue to rise, high-ri...