Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

Ginza is one of the most expensive districts in Japan—arguably the most expensive. On one side stands the flagship store of Apple , and across the street, a boutique of Tiffany & Co. . It’s a street lined with some of the world’s most prestigious brands. But among them, there is one store drawing an unusually large crowd—and it might not be what you expect. On March 28, 2026, a new store opened in this prime location. Its exterior is sleek, and inside, it’s packed with international visitors. It’s the flagship store of JINS —a Japanese budget eyewear chain. A “Smart” Eyewear Experience Step inside, and you immediately notice that this is not your typical glasses shop. The space is bright, open, and carefully organized. Customers freely pick up frames and try them on, almost like browsing in a fashion store. One feature stands out: an AI-powered measurement device. Stand in front of it, and the system scans your face, measuring details such as the distance be...

April 1st. A rainy morning. Rain during cherry blossom season is often called “flower-scattering rain,” and is usually unwelcome. Still, I went out early to see the cherry blossoms along the Sumida River. Every bud had opened. It was fair to call it full bloom. But in some trees, leaves were already beginning to appear. Petals drifted in the wind, and the rain-soaked ground was tinted soft pink. The peak had just passed, and the blossoms were beginning their slow journey toward the end— though they would likely remain at their best through the coming weekend. Despite the rain, it was a day you could easily call “perfect timing.” And yet, this idea of perfect timing is exactly what makes cherry blossoms so difficult. Everyone wants to see them at their best. But the timing changes every year. And for travelers coming from abroad— especially those planning their trips months in advance— this uncertainty becomes even more frustrating. Cherry blossoms resist prediction. St...

It’s cherry blossom season in Japan. Every year, people start talking about the best places to see sakura. In Tokyo, names like Ueno Park , Meguro River , and Chidorigafuchi always come up. But here’s the thing—cherry blossoms aren’t limited to famous spots. You’ll find them everywhere: in front of stations, in quiet neighborhoods, along small rivers. Sometimes you just look up—and there they are. So does it really matter where you go? Not everyone feels the need to head to the busiest places. For some, avoiding the crowds is part of the experience. To be honest, I wasn’t entirely sure how to approach this topic. Simply listing famous locations didn’t feel quite right. Note: Some of the photos in this article may not be from this year. Looking at Hanami from a Different Angle Instead, I started thinking about something else: the relationship between place and people. What do people actually do during hanami? What are they looking for? In this article, I’ll break down cherry blossom ...

In Asakusa —a district where temple-lined streets and old storefronts still preserve the atmosphere of historic Tokyo—there is another kind of experience waiting just around the corner. In a previous article, I stepped into the chaotic world of back fat ramen at Ramen Benkei. Here, pork fat doesn’t just add flavor to the soup—it takes control of it . This is the so-called “cha-cha” style, where back fat is shaken over the bowl until the surface is covered in a shimmering white layer. Back Fat Ramen: Japan’s Wildest Bowl – Featuring Benkei in Asakusa You might remember the keyword I mentioned— “Gita-gita.” A kind of spell you whisper to the staff to ask for extra fat. And then, there was something else. “Chou Gita.” — “chou” meaning “super” in Japanese — A rumor. A whispered upgrade. Something not written anywhere. —Or so it seemed. The Rumor Becomes Real Recently, when I returned to Benkei in Asakusa after some time away, I noticed something had changed. ...

Tokyo’s Kanda Surugadai and Ochanomizu area is surprisingly hilly for a city center. The Kanda River carved out a valley here, and the plateaus on either side create a landscape filled with steep slopes and winding streets. It almost feels like a small canyon tucked into the middle of Tokyo. As you walk from the busy streets near the station up the hill, you can feel the atmosphere shift. The change in elevation is sudden, and even today, you can clearly sense the natural terrain beneath the modern city. For a moment, you realize—this was once a hill. A Building at the Top of the Hill At the top of one of these slopes stands a quiet, dignified building, carrying the weight of time. The Yamanoue Hotel—its name literally meaning “on top of the hill”—sits there almost as if it has always belonged to the landscape itself. More than just a place to stay, it feels like a memory of the neighborhood made visible. From Social Facility to Historic Hotel The building was originally co...

As cities evolve, they often begin to resemble one another, shaped by familiar patterns of development. Yet some places retain a character of their own—and continue to be chosen, generation after generation. Ochanomizu is one of them. View of the Kanda River and railway tracks from Hijiri Bridge The area around JR Ochanomizu Station is defined by its complex terrain. With landmarks like Hijiri Bridge and the steep slopes running along the Kanda River, the neighborhood offers a vivid sense of Tokyo’s layered geography. Simply walking through it, you begin to understand just how intricate the city really is. And then, along those slopes overlooking the river valley, an unexpected scene unfolds. Shops with walls covered entirely in guitars. Showcases filled with vintage brass instruments. Out front, young musicians pick up instruments and play—faces serious, completely absorbed in the moment. Even today, Ochanomizu remains one of the largest and most concentrated musical instrume...