Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

 At the end of 2025, Tokyo ’s Tsukiji Outer Market drew attention in an unusual way. Tsukiji was once known as the world’s largest fish market . After the wholesale market was relocated to Toyosu in 2018, iconic scenes such as the early-morning tuna auctions disappeared. Even so, the surrounding outer market has remained active. Lined with wholesale and retail shops, sushi counters , seafood bowl restaurants , stores selling dried foods , knives , and kitchen tools , the area has become a “town of food” that attracts visitors from both Japan and abroad. Tsukiji: From Legendary Fish Market to Today’s Foodie Hub and Beyond It was in this Tsukiji that an unusual message appeared this year: a request asking tourists not to come during the year-end period. A Euphemistic Message Called the “Shopping Support Declaration” A poster displayed at the tourist information center strongly urges guided tour operators to refrain from operating during the year-end period. In December 2025,...

There is a scene in Tokyo that many people associate with the end of the year. In Ameyoko , near Ueno Station , a slow-moving river of people fills the narrow streets. I find myself joining that flow almost every December . And each time, I catch myself thinking: Why am I here, really? I’m not looking for anything in particular. I’m not shopping for New Year’s food . Still, as the year draws to a close, my feet somehow carry me here. The crowds are anything but comfortable, yet standing in the middle of them makes me feel it clearly: yes, the year is coming to an end. This feeling probably isn’t mine alone. Even people who have never been to Tokyo often recognize the image of “Ameyoko at the end of the year.” Every December, the same footage appears on television and online, and over time it has become one of the scenes that symbolize the Japanese year-end itself. A familiar year-end spectacle In reality, Ameyoko at the end of December is crowded almost to its limits. That said, ...

  If you visit Japan in December—especially Tokyo—you may notice something curious. Long lines of people waiting patiently in front of very small street-side booths. They’re not waiting for a restaurant, and it’s not the latest dessert trend. There is only one reason they’re here: to buy a dream. This is the line for Japan’s Year-End Jumbo Lottery, a seasonal tradition that appears every December. The lottery is heavily advertised on television, in train stations, and on posters across the country, creating a festive, slightly hopeful atmosphere as the year comes to an end. The drawing takes place on December 31, turning the lottery into a year-end event that many people enjoy talking about while imagining “what if.” Including bonus prizes for adjacent numbers, the top prize can reach as much as 1 billion yen—about 6.7 million US dollars at current exchange rates. Types of Lottery in Japan Japan’s officially approved lotteries are known collectively as Takarakuji and come in se...

In Japanese history, there are foreigners who are not particularly famous in their own countries, yet left a surprisingly clear and lasting mark on Japan itself. This column series focuses on such figures, exploring how they came to Japan and how their presence has been remembered within Japanese cities and historical memory — sometimes quietly, sometimes in unexpected ways. This time, the focus is on  Jan Joosten , a Dutchman who arrived in Japan at the very beginning of the Edo period and spent the rest of his life closely connected to the Tokugawa regime. From Delft to the seas of Asia Jan Joosten van Lodensteyn was born in the late sixteenth century in Delft , a city in the Netherlands. Today, Delft is best known as the hometown of Vermeer and for its distinctive blue-and-white ceramics. At the time, however, Delft was also part of a rapidly expanding maritime nation. The Netherlands was emerging as a major sea power, and cities like Delft supported overseas trade and...

  Many visitors who take an interest in Japan inevitably become fascinated by kanji. Because each character carries its own meaning and can be read in several ways, people often think: “Maybe I can express my name in kanji too!” But once you actually try, you quickly discover something: It’s not as simple as it sounds. Today, there are countless online tools that generate kanji names instantly. Still, whether the resulting name sounds natural, whether its meaning flows well, or whether it “feels” like a plausible Japanese name… the deeper you go, the more you realize that the world of kanji is rich, complex, and—crucially—rarely provides a single correct answer. This guide explains, gently and clearly: What it really means to “express a name in kanji” Basic methods and things to watch out for How such names feel to Japanese speakers What Does It Mean to “Assign Kanji to a Name”? The core idea is simple: One kanji usually has multiple readings. And becau...

  Step into the grounds of Tomioka Hachiman Shrine in Monzen-Nakachō, and you’ll notice a striking statue on your left. A top-knotted man stands poised to take a step forward, wearing tightly wrapped gaiters and holding a staff fitted with a circular surveying plate. In recent years, this figure—the man immortalized in bronze—has been experiencing an unexpected, quietly growing revival on social media. His steady yet strangely romantic life story has begun to resonate with a new generation. That man is  伊能忠敬  Ino Tadataka . A Brief Look at His Life Born in 1745 in what is now Sawara, Chiba Prefecture , Ino married into the Ino merchant family and revived its struggling business in sake brewing and rice brokerage. At 36, he became village headman, and during the Great Tenmei Famine he used his personal wealth to support the villagers—famously leaving zero famine deaths. By the time he retired at 49, he had amassed an impressive fortune .Yet his life truly shin...