When people think of viewing flowers in Japan, many immediately picture cherry blossoms in spring. But just a little earlier—around this time of year—another flower begins to bloom.
It is ume, the plum blossom.
If cherry blossoms are the highlight of spring, ume is the opening act. While the air is still cold, it quietly signals that the season is about to change.
This time, let’s focus on the elegant beauty of the plum blossom.
A Wide Variety of Colors and Forms
Plum blossoms come in a surprisingly rich range of colors.
White blossoms have a pure, refined elegance, while red varieties bloom in vivid shades of crimson and deep pink. Some flowers begin with a stronger pink or reddish tone and gradually soften as they fully open.
Most plum blossoms have five small petals in a simple, single-layer form. But there are also double-petaled varieties with layered blossoms, and weeping types whose branches arch gracefully downward.
Though quiet and understated, the plum reveals remarkable diversity in its expressions.
Not Just for the Eyes, but for the Scent
Plum blossoms are meant to be experienced through fragrance as well as sight.
As you walk through a garden, a sweet, slightly spicy, almost noble scent drifts through the air. Often, you notice the fragrance before you see the flowers themselves—that is part of their charm.
Cherry blossoms have almost no scent. The plum’s delicate and refined fragrance is one reason it has been celebrated in poetry and classical waka for centuries.
Not All “Plums” Are the Same
In many Western countries, especially in Europe and North America, the word “plum” usually refers to the fruit-bearing European plum, most commonly Prunus domestica. These trees are cultivated primarily for their fruit. They do bloom, b
ut they have not been extensively developed for ornamental diversity in the way Japanese plum trees have.
Japanese plum, on the other hand, is Prunus mume. In English it is often called “Japanese apricot,” and botanically it is closer to the apricot than to the European plum.
In Japan, plum trees have been cultivated and refined for centuries within a culture that deeply appreciates flowers. As a result, many ornamental varieties emerged—red plum, white plum, weeping plum, and more.
Japanese plum is not only a fruit tree. It is a cultural flower tree, valued for its fragrance, form, and quiet presence.
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| Because plum trees are relatively easy to cultivate, they are also appreciated in potted form and even in bonsai displays. |
Before Cherry Blossoms, Plum Was “The Flower”
Today, “flower viewing” in Japan usually means cherry blossoms. Yet before the Nara period, when people simply said “flower,” they often meant plum.Introduced from China, plum became a symbol of aristocratic culture. It represented learning, refinement, and cosmopolitan taste. It was considered the most sophisticated flower of its time.
As the centuries passed, the more flamboyant cherry blossom took center stage. Yet deep within Japanese culture, respect for plum still remains.
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| In Hanafuda, the traditional Japanese card game, each month is represented by a flower. The card for Month 2 is plum blossom—so instead of a printed number, the image itself tells you “two.” |
Beauty and Practical Use
Plum is not only for admiration.
In early summer, its fruit is harvested and used to make umeboshi (pickled plums) and umeshu (plum liqueur). These preserved foods support health and mark seasonal family traditions.
Plum embodies both beauty and practicality—an elegant presence deeply rooted in daily life.
An Early Spring Flower You Can Enjoy for Weeks
The charm of plum lies not only in blooming in the cold, but in how long it quietly endures.
With many varieties ranging from early to late bloomers, the season can last one to three months. Plum trees are resilient in the face of cold temperatures and relatively stable through weather changes, gently bridging the seasons.
By contrast, the iconic cherry tree Somei Yoshino blooms all at once, and its full glory lasts only about a week. Its brief and graceful fall has long been admired as the essence of beauty.
If cherry blossoms are a “moment of brilliance,” plum blossoms represent a “quiet, enduring strength.”
Blooming from February, often depicted against a backdrop of snow, plum flowers stand firm in the cold and support the long transition into spring. Their presence may well embody resilience itself.
Where to See Plum Blossoms in Tokyo
Plum trees can be enjoyed in parks, gardens, shrines, and temples throughout Japan. In Tokyo, several famous spots stand out:
Kameido Tenjin Shrine
Known for its seasonal flowers, Kameido Tenjin Shrine is especially photogenic in plum season. Red and white blossoms frame the arched drum bridges that cross a serene pond, creating one of Tokyo’s most picturesque early-spring scenes.
The shrine was modeled after Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Kyushu. It is also famous for its wisteria in April and May, when cascading purple blooms transform the grounds.
Yushima Tenmangu (Yushima Tenjin)
Yushima Tenmangu is well known for its white plum blossoms and elegant weeping varieties. Its annual plum festival attracts many visitors each year.
As a Tenjin shrine, it is especially popular with students praying for academic success. It has also become a place where people pray for success in competitions—whether in sports, business, or other personal challenges.
Ikegami Baien (Ikegami Plum Garden)
A public garden built on the former residence of a Japanese-style painter, featuring around 30 varieties and 370 plum trees. The name Baien literally means “plum garden” (bai = plum, en = garden), reflecting its identity as a garden devoted entirely to plum blossoms.
Other well-known locations include Koishikawa Korakuen and Mukojima Hyakkaen.
A Side Note: Who Is Tenjin? The Story Behind the Plum
Both Kameido Tenjin Shrine and Yushima Tenmangu enshrine Sugawara no Michizane, a brilliant scholar of the Heian period who later came to be revered as the deity of learning.
Despite his accomplishments, Michizane fell victim to political intrigue and was exiled from Kyoto to Dazaifu in Kyushu, where he died in sorrow. Before leaving Kyoto, he composed a famous poem to the plum tree in his garden:
“When the east wind blows,
let it carry your fragrance to me,
O plum blossoms.
Do not forget to bloom in spring
just because your master is gone.”
According to legend, the beloved tree flew from Kyoto to Dazaifu to reunite with him. At Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, there is still a plum tree said to be that very “flying plum” (tobi-ume).
Because of this story, plum blossoms became deeply associated with Michizane. Shrines dedicated to him—known as Tenjin shrines—almost always feature plum trees in their grounds. This is why both Kameido Tenjin and Yushima Tenmangu are especially famous for their plum blossoms.
Before the Cherry Blossoms
When tourists are still few, the air is crisp, and fragrance carries clearly through the gardens—this is the season of plum.
If you would like to understand Japanese spring more deeply, try visiting plum blossoms before cherry blossoms.
It may become a quiet encounter with another flower-viewing tradition that has continued since ancient times.
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