Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

Among Tokyo’s many stylish districts, Ebisu has a special charm. Perched on hilly slopes, the area gathers sophisticated shopping complexes and international restaurants, while also being home to many foreign residents. It is a place where comfort and high-class living, everyday life and a touch of the extraordinary, mingle harmoniously. Ebisu is also conveniently adjacent to Shibuya and Daikanyama, making it easy to access and explore as part of a day in Tokyo. When deciding where to have dinner in central Tokyo, Ebisu is a neighborhood worth remembering. Let’s take a closer look at what makes it so distinctive. The Origin of the Name “Ebisu” Ebisu ( えびす ) is one of Japan’s “Seven Lucky Gods,” a group that includes deities from Buddhism, Hindu traditions, and Japan’s own ancient beliefs. He is depicted holding a fishing rod and a sea bream, symbolizing prosperity in business and bountiful catches from the sea. To this day, Ebisu remains a beloved figure. And yet, the dir...

SOBAGIRI RAKUJYO In Japan, there’s a curious and often heartwarming trend. After years of commuting, overtime, and corporate life, some Japanese salarymen retire and suddenly… take up soba-making by hand. Their friends chuckle. Their kids roll their eyes. “Seriously? Dad’s becoming a soba chef now?” But behind the jokes lies something very real: the quiet joy of working with your hands, and the meditative rhythm of turning buckwheat flour into something deeply nourishing. What Is Soba? Soba noodles are thin, light noodles made mainly from buckwheat flour, often mixed with a bit of wheat flour for elasticity. A common blend is 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat, known in Japan as ni-hachi soba . Soba lovers often debate the ideal flour ratio like wine lovers debate grape blends. You can eat soba hot in a savory broth or cold with dipping sauce — it's enjoyed all year but plays an especially symbolic role on New Year’s Eve, when toshikoshi soba is eaten to mark the transition to th...

Among Tokyo’s 23 wards, there’s one area often called the most unremarkable . That’s Kita Ward — literally “North.” Kita = North. Simple as that. But there’s a reason behind that plain name. As the name suggests, Kita marks the northern gateway to Tokyo . Bordering Saitama Prefecture , it has long been considered the entrance to Edo — the historical Tokyo — since samurai times. The Northern Gateway: Oji Station At the heart of Kita Ward stands Oji Station , one of the city’s northernmost transport hubs. This time, I visited Oji on an autumn day to see what kind of charm this quiet part of Tokyo holds. The Slopes of Oji Tell a Story Step out of Oji Station, and you’ll immediately notice the slope.　Here, the flat streets from downtown Tokyo suddenly rise, reminding you of the city’s dramatic terrain. Today it’s neatly paved, but in the past, this was known as the beginning of a difficult hill road. At the top lies Asukayama Park , created in the 18th century by the eighth...