Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

What is a Yokocho? As you walk through Tokyo, you’ll often come across the word yokocho (よこちょう). Literally, it means “side alley.” But in Tokyo’s urban culture, the term carries a richer meaning. A yokocho is typically a narrow, crowded lane filled with tiny izakaya (pubs), food stalls, and bars, where smoke from charcoal grills drifts through the air. Even places that simply capture this atmosphere are sometimes described as “yokocho-like.” Yokocho districts were rarely part of formal urban planning. Most sprang up around train stations during the chaotic years after World War II, when people set up makeshift stalls and grills wherever crowds gathered. Born not from regulations or zoning but from necessity and human interaction, many yokocho had guerrilla-like origins. Their disorderly energy is exactly what gives them their unique charm. The Rough Charm of Old Yokocho Traditional yokocho retain a gritty appeal that refuses to be polished away. In contrast to neatly redeveloped ...

  Sushi Is Everywhere in Japan In Japan, sushi is everywhere. For many visitors, sushi is a must-try attraction — a highlight of the trip. And for us Japanese, sushi is equally familiar. You can pick up a tray at the supermarket, order a sushi set at a family restaurant, go to a conveyor-belt chain, or enjoy a more refined experience at a quiet sushi counter. Amid this wide range of options, Japanese people often distinguish between casual and formal sushi with a uniquely local phrase: "mawaranai sushi" — literally, "non-rotating sushi." You might hear a conversation like this: A: I had sushi yesterday. B: Nice! Was it mawaru sushi or mawaranai sushi ? A: Just conveyor-belt. I went to Sushiro. What Is “Mawaranai Sushi”? “Mawaru sushi” refers to kaitenzushi — the conveyor-belt sushi chains like Kura Sushi, Kappa Sushi, or Sushiro, now deeply woven into daily life in Japan. Affordable, accessible, and fun, they’ve made sushi an everyday meal. By cont...

SOBAGIRI RAKUJYO In Japan, there’s a curious and often heartwarming trend. After years of commuting, overtime, and corporate life, some Japanese salarymen retire and suddenly… take up soba-making by hand. Their friends chuckle. Their kids roll their eyes. “Seriously? Dad’s becoming a soba chef now?” But behind the jokes lies something very real: the quiet joy of working with your hands, and the meditative rhythm of turning buckwheat flour into something deeply nourishing. What Is Soba? Soba noodles are thin, light noodles made mainly from buckwheat flour, often mixed with a bit of wheat flour for elasticity. A common blend is 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat, known in Japan as ni-hachi soba . Soba lovers often debate the ideal flour ratio like wine lovers debate grape blends. You can eat soba hot in a savory broth or cold with dipping sauce — it's enjoyed all year but plays an especially symbolic role on New Year’s Eve, when toshikoshi soba is eaten to mark the transition to th...

When it comes to Japanese ramen, variety is endless. From light shoyu (soy sauce) to rich tonkotsu (pork bone), ramen lovers are spoiled for choice. But one style turns everything up to 11: back fat ramen . What Is Back Fat (Se-abura)? "Se-abura" means pork back fat—soft, flavorful fat taken from the pig’s back, chopped into tiny pieces, and generously sprinkled over ramen. Sometimes it completely covers the surface like a snowy white layer , keeping the soup hot and adding a deep, sweet richness. This style is especially famous in Niigata and parts of Tokyo , where it’s known for its bold, greasy charm. It’s not for the faint of heart—but if you’re into extreme food culture, it’s a must-try. Cha-Cha Style Ramen: A Tokyo Legend in Asakusa One unforgettable variation is the cha-cha style ramen, named after the “cha-cha” sound the chef makes while shaking pork fat through a strainer over the bowl. And in Tokyo, no place does it quite like Benkei in Asakusa . Since the...

When people think of Japanese noodles, ramen often takes center stage. But another type of noodle has a much longer history and a deeper cultural connection:  soba , or buckwheat noodles. From high-end specialty shops to quick, standing soba counters at train stations, soba is everywhere in Japan. It's enjoyed in many forms depending on the season, the region, and the pace of daily life. As a personal note, whenever I travel to a new region in Japan, I always find myself checking if the area has hot springs—and whether there's a local soba specialty to try. It’s just a little habit of mine, but I suspect I’m not alone in this kind of travel ritual. The Basics: Hot or Cold, Simple or Refined Soba can be enjoyed in a few basic ways: ·          Kake soba :  · hot noodles served in broth. Kake soba is a simple preparation—just noodles in a warm broth. When toppings like tempura are added, the dish takes a new name, such as “tempura...