Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

  The river’s level is above the zero mark—a visual reminder of how high waters can rise. The Signboard in Edogawa Here’s a photo I took in Edogawa Ward, Tokyo. At first glance, it just looks like an electronic display. But what do you think it’s showing? In fact, this board indicates the current water level of the Arakawa River. And far above it, you’ll notice another mark—showing how high the floodwaters once reached during a major flood in the past. Neighborhoods Lower than the River As you walk through eastern Tokyo—places like Edogawa or Kōtō Ward—you may spot these kinds of signs. And if you look up, you might see a marker, high overhead, showing the past floodwater level. It’s a quiet but sobering reminder: some neighborhoods here actually sit lower than the surface of the river. The Great Flood caused by the Arakawa River breach in 1910 (from Edogawa City’s official website) Historically, eastern Tokyo was a vast wetland of rivers, marshes, and ponds. Centuries of flood con...

When people think of Tokyo, places like Shibuya or Shinjuku usually come to mind. But if you venture just a little further, you’ll find areas where the city’s noise fades and time seems to slow down. One such place is Kiyosumi-Shirakawa . Here, a branch of the Sumida River creates a gentle waterway that defines the townscape. Rooted in Edo-period downtown culture and shaped by its riverside setting, the neighborhood once thrived with logistics companies and small factories. Today, while still retaining its traditional atmosphere, it has also become known for its art and coffee culture. Within walking distance of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa are Ryogoku, home of sumo wrestling, and the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, making it a convenient base for exploring. The Serenity of Kiyosumi Garden No visit to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is complete without stopping by Kiyosumi Garden . Originally created in the Edo period and later restored by Yataro Iwasaki, founder of the Mitsubishi conglomerat...

For Japanese people, the National Diet Building is akin to the White House for Americans. It symbolizes politics, power, and the nation itself, and many have seen it on news programs or in textbooks. Yet, precisely because it is so familiar, people often fail to notice the unique “strangeness” of this building. A Fusion of Design and Style Standing tall in Nagatachō, Tokyo, the National Diet Building evokes Western architecture, yet it also seems somewhat cosmopolitan—or even stateless. Its most striking feature is the pyramid-shaped central spire, rather than a dome, giving it a unique silhouette that some say even resembles an Indian temple. The central tower rises 65 meters, and the symmetrical façade reflects Japan’s bicameral system, with the House of Representatives on the left and the House of Councillors on the right. While influenced by 17th-century European Neo-Baroque architecture, the building also incorporates Japanese motifs throughout. It is not a mere imitation of We...

In Tokyo, there’s a neighborhood affectionately nicknamed “Grandma’s Harajuku.” If Harajuku is the go-to spot for trendy teen girls, this is where older women gather to shop, eat, and catch up with friends. If that nickname doesn’t exactly make your heart skip a beat, that’s understandable — it’s not for everyone. You might be tempted to move on. But wait just a second… this place is surprisingly charming. At the heart of Sugamo lies Jizō-dōri Shopping Street , a lively stretch lined with old-fashioned stores, temples, and friendly locals. Walk a little, and you’ll naturally slow down to match the relaxed pace of the street. Here are some spots worth checking out. Jizō-dōri Shopping Street Stretching about 800 meters with roughly 200 shops, this is Sugamo’s main artery. The variety is impressive — traditional sweet shops, delis, clothing boutiques, and even specialty stores selling health goods. Some shops cater specifically to active seniors, offering walking canes, rollators, ...

Tokyo is often called the global capital of anime and manga. Among the many neighborhoods that embrace otaku culture, three districts stand out as “holy grounds” ( 聖地 seichi ): Akihabara , Ikebukuro , and Nakano . They’re all worth a visit—but here’s what most tourists don’t realize: To Japanese fans, these places feel completely different. Sure, you’ll find Naruto and Demon Slayer figures in all of them—but don’t be fooled. They may look similar on the surface, but each has its own weird and wonderful flavor. How someone talks about them often reveals their personality as a fan. So if you want to sound like a real otaku insider (and maybe make your Japanese friends laugh), here’s the local take on Tokyo’s anime trinity. Akihabara – “Well, you have to go there, right?” Akihabara ( 秋葉原 / A-ki-ha-ba-ra) is the global face of otaku culture. It began as an electronics district and still carries that legacy today. Even now, tucked between flashy anime billboards...

Just a few minutes’ walk from JR Nippori Station’s East Exit , you'll find a hidden treasure for anyone who loves fabrics, sewing, or handicrafts — Nippori Fabric Town(日暮里繊維街 ) . This compact but densely packed street stretches for a few blocks and has become a beloved destination for both industry professionals and amateur creators alike. A Haven for Creators Originally a textile wholesale district for professional tailors and designers, Nippori Fabric Town has evolved into a welcoming place for all kinds of makers , from students and hobbyists to tourists in search of unique souvenirs. You’ll find everything from traditional Japanese prints and cottons to lace, leather, denim , and a stunning variety of accessories like buttons, threads, and zippers. Many shops reflect Japan’s aesthetic — indigo-dyed cloth, sakura patterns, or yukata-style prints — making it especially appealing to international visitors. And since many shops open around 10:00 a.m. and close by 6:00 p....