Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

Today, Asakusa burst into life with color, rhythm, and heat as the annual Asakusa Samba Carnival filled the streets. Though far smaller in scale than Rio’s world-famous celebration, its bright costumes, pounding drums, and cheering crowds gave downtown Tokyo a festive spirit all its own—more playful neighborhood parade than massive spectacle, where Edo gently meets Rio. Samba and Asakusa: An Unexpected Match First held in 1981, the Asakusa Samba Carnival has grown into Japan’s largest samba festival, drawing crowds of locals and international visitors alike. Although the festival was paused for several years due to the COVID-19 pandemic, this year marks its 40th edition , a milestone celebrated with full energy on the streets of Asakusa. The highlight is the S1 League competition, where top teams perform elaborate parades complete with story-driven choreography, floats, and dazzling costumes. These performances are judged not only by onlookers but also through online voting, with vict...

On August 23, 2025, the 66th Tokyo Koenji Awa Odori kicked off. I joined the first day  and experienced Koenji’s streets filled with the sound of drums, shamisen, and the powerful shouts of “Yatto-sa!” . In this post, I’d like to look back on that excitement and share the unique charm of this summer festival. About Koenji Koenji is one of Tokyo’s most popular neighborhoods among young people. It combines easy access to central Tokyo with a retro, affordable residential feel. The area is also known for its live music venues, vintage clothing stores, and subculture vibe. But on one weekend in late August, the entire town transforms into a stage for Awa Odori. What is Awa Odori? The shopping streets are completely filled with people and overflowing with excitement Although Koenji has become synonymous with Awa Odori, the festival was not born in Tokyo. Its roots are in Tokushima , historically called “Awa,” on the island of Shikoku. “Odori”  means “Dance” in Japanese ...

Twice a year, in the blazing heat of August and the chill of December, Tokyo hosts the world’s largest self-publishing fair: Comic Market , better known as Comiket . Held at the Tokyo Big Sight convention center, it brings together hundreds of thousands of fans from Japan and abroad. The latest event, “Comiket 106,” drew an estimated 250,000 visitors in just two days . I joined the crowd on the final day. The history of Comiket dates back to 1975 (this year marks its 50th anniversary!). The first event, held in Toranomon, Tokyo, featured just 32 circles and around 700 participants. Nearly five decades later, it has grown into a major event attracting fans from overseas as well. One of its defining characteristics is that it has continued as a space for free creative expression, independent from commercial publishing. The Path to Entry From the nearest train station, long lines of attendees stretched all the way to the venue. Despite the summer sun, everyone waited patiently, prepared...

When travel guides or Instagram posts showcase “quintessential Japan,” the familiar sights often include the silhouette of Mount Fuji or the temples of Kyoto. For many travelers, another icon stands alongside them — the enormous red lantern hanging at the entrance of Asakusa in Tokyo. This is the lantern of Kaminarimon , the Thunder Gate of Sensō-ji Temple, arguably the most famous lantern in Japan. But why is it so large? In Japan, the chōchin (lantern) has always been more than a mere source of light. With deep cultural roots and centuries of history, it has illuminated sacred shrines, bustling streets, and festival nights alike. The Kaminarimon Lantern Utagawa Hiroshige   In Front of Asakusa Kaminarimon Passing through Kaminarimon, the first thing you notice is the massive lantern — about 3.9 meters tall and weighing roughly 700 kilograms. Boldly painted with the characters “ 雷門 ” (Thunder Gate), it glows softly at night, offering a different charm from its day...

Tokyo is full of must-see spots—Asakusa, Shibuya, the Sky Tree, Ginza. But beyond the famous sights, there are places where you can experience something far more personal: unexpected encounters, forgotten treasures, and stories waiting to be found. Welcome to Tokyo’s flea markets. From retro teapots and one-of-a-kind crafts to quirky antiques and friendly vendor chats, these markets are filled with moments you won’t find in department stores. Each item, each interaction is a once-in-a-lifetime discovery—a true ichigo ichie (one time, one meeting). Whether you're on the hunt for vintage fashion, handmade goods, or just want to wander and see what catches your eye, flea markets offer a slower, more surprising side of Tokyo. It’s not just shopping—it’s a treasure hunt, a conversation, and a chance to connect. Here’s a guide to some of Tokyo’s best flea markets held throughout the year: 1. Ohi Racecourse Flea Market Location: Oi Keibajo, Shinagawa Schedule: Most Saturdays, S...

Every year in mid-May, the usually chill neighborhood of Asakusa in Tokyo transforms into a buzzing, energetic sea of people, music, and mikoshi (portable shrines). Welcome to the Sanja Matsuri(三社祭) —one of Japan’s biggest and most iconic festivals!  What is Sanja Matsuri? Sanja Matsuri is the annual grand festival (reitaisai) of Asakusa Shrine in Tokyo’s Taito Ward. Most Shinto shrines in Japan have a yearly celebration to honor their enshrined deities—and Asakusa Shrine has not just one, but three gods ! The three deities are: Haji no Manakachi no Mikoto Hinokuma Hamanari no Mikoto Hinokuma Takenari no Mikoto That’s why it’s called Sanja Matsuri—literally, “Three Shrines Festival.”  When and where does it happen? The festival is held over three days —Friday, Saturday, and Sunday— on the third weekend of May . The main stage is Asakusa Shrine , but the whole Asakusa neighborhood comes alive!  What makes Sanja Matsuri so thrilling? The heart of ...