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If You Want to See Cherry Blossoms Now: Discovering Kawazu-zakura

Many Japanese guidebooks feature the iconic image of cherry blossoms—the familiar sight of pale pink petals filling the landscape from late March to early April. But it is now the end of February. If you are visiting Japan at this time of year, you might assume it is simply too early for sakura and resign yourself to missing them. Before the Cherry Blossoms: Discovering Japan’s Plum Season In a previous column, I introduced Japanese plum blossoms, those modest yet beautiful harbingers of early spring. While Japan’s flower-viewing culture is wonderfully diverse, cherry blossoms hold a uniquely special place in people’s hearts. Here is the good news: just as there are many varieties of plum trees that bloom over an extended season, the same is true for cherry blossoms. The sakura season is not limited to April. Sakura Is More Than Somei-yoshino The scene described above was captured today, February 28, along the Kyu-Nakagawa River in Tokyo’s Edogawa, where dozens of vibrant cherry trees ...
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Shibaura: A City Still in Progress, Just Beyond the Rainbow Bridge

In a previous article about Odaiba, I wrote about walking across the Rainbow Bridge. Odaiba: Tokyo’s Self-Conscious Playground, Worth a Second Look Once you reach the other side of that long walk, you arrive at today’s destination: Shibaura . After walking across the Rainbow Bridge, this is the view from Shibaura — Odaiba on the far shore, with the Fuji TV building standing out. Warehouses line the streets. There are few pedestrians, and the atmosphere feels a little lonely. And yet, this is very much central Tokyo. Shibaura is part of Minato Ward —one of the city’s most prestigious areas. Roppongi and Aoyama are not far away at all. Still, the scenery here feels strangely disconnected from the glittering, polished image many people associate with Tokyo. Shibaura: Almost Something, But Not Quite That doesn’t mean Shibaura is run-down. Far from it. Office buildings fill the area, and several well-known companies have their headquarters here. Land prices continue to rise, high-ri...
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A Fire to Send Off the New Year — Tondo-yaki, a Tradition Still Alive in Tokyo

January 8, at Torigoe Shrine in Taito Ward , Tokyo. From early morning, people arrive one after another, carrying New Year decorations such as straw ropes and pine ornaments. In the cold winter air, there is a quiet sense of anticipation. In front of a large pile of New Year decorations prepared in the shrine grounds, Shinto priests recite prayers and strike flints to light the fire. The flames quickly rise, crackling loudly, and now and then the sharp “dondon” sound of bamboo bursting can be heard. Against the clear winter sky, the scene is striking. Around the blazing fire, children walk in a circle, chanting “Tondoya, Tondo” while tapping the ground with green bamboo poles. In an instant, the shrine comes alive with sound and movement. This is Tondo-yaki , a New Year fire ritual that still survives in downtown Tokyo. Tondo-yaki at Torigoe Shrine Torigoe Shrine is said to have been founded in the Heian period . During the Edo period , it became especially known as a place w...
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Nanakusa-gayu: Japan’s January 7 Rice Porridge and the Quiet End of the New Year

On January 7, a long line formed at Otori Shrine in Asakusa. People waited patiently in the cold, drawn not by a festival performance or a spectacle, but by the promise of a New Year’s tradition. What was being offered was simple: fresh mochi, made from rice pounded earlier that day, and nanakusa-gayu—rice porridge cooked with seven spring herbs traditionally eaten on this date. The porridge itself is nothing more than plain rice gently simmered, mixed with finely chopped greens and lightly seasoned with salt. Gathering Luck in Tokyo: A Night at Asakusa Tori no Ichi Ootori  Shrine By January 7, the excitement of the New Year has begun to settle, and daily life slowly resumes. Eating nanakusa-gayu on this day is a long-established custom, practiced not only at Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, but also at community events with no religious setting, and at ordinary family tables. Across Japan, the dish appears in many forms, from places of worship to secular gatherings and everyda...
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Visiting Tsukiji at Year’s End: The Unusual Message Asking Visitors Not to Come

 At the end of 2025, Tokyo’s Tsukiji Outer Market drew attention in an unusual way. Tsukiji was once known as the world’s largest fish market. After the wholesale market was relocated to Toyosu in 2018, iconic scenes such as the early-morning tuna auctions disappeared. Even so, the surrounding outer market has remained active. Lined with wholesale and retail shops, sushi counters , seafood bowl , stores selling dried foods, knives, and kitchen tools, the area has become a “town of food” that attracts visitors from both Japan and abroad. Tsukiji: From Legendary Fish Market to Today’s Foodie Hub and Beyond It was in this Tsukiji that an unusual message appeared this year: a request asking tourists not to come during the year-end period. A Euphemistic Message Called the “Shopping Support Declaration” A poster displayed at the tourist information center strongly urges guided tour operators to refrain from operating during the year-end period. In December 2025, the Tsukiji Town ...
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Why Do People Keep Coming to Ueno at Year’s End?

There is a scene in Tokyo that many people associate with the end of the year. In Ameyoko , near Ueno Station , a slow-moving river of people fills the narrow streets. I find myself joining that flow almost every December . And each time, I catch myself thinking: Why am I here, really? I’m not looking for anything in particular. I’m not shopping for New Year’s food . Still, as the year draws to a close, my feet somehow carry me here. The crowds are anything but comfortable, yet standing in the middle of them makes me feel it clearly: yes, the year is coming to an end. This feeling probably isn’t mine alone. Even people who have never been to Tokyo often recognize the image of “Ameyoko at the end of the year.” Every December, the same footage appears on television and online, and over time it has become one of the scenes that symbolize the Japanese year-end itself. A familiar year-end spectacle In reality, Ameyoko at the end of December is crowded almost to its limits. That said, ...
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Ebisu – A Neighborhood Blessed by Gods and Beer

Among Tokyo’s many stylish districts, Ebisu has a special charm. Perched on hilly slopes, the area gathers sophisticated shopping complexes and international restaurants, while also being home to many foreign residents. It is a place where comfort and high-class living, everyday life and a touch of the extraordinary, mingle harmoniously. Ebisu is also conveniently adjacent to Shibuya and Daikanyama, making it easy to access and explore as part of a day in Tokyo. When deciding where to have dinner in central Tokyo, Ebisu is a neighborhood worth remembering. Let’s take a closer look at what makes it so distinctive. The Origin of the Name “Ebisu” Ebisu ( えびす ) is one of Japan’s “Seven Lucky Gods,” a group that includes deities from Buddhism, Hindu traditions, and Japan’s own ancient beliefs. He is depicted holding a fishing rod and a sea bream, symbolizing prosperity in business and bountiful catches from the sea. To this day, Ebisu remains a beloved figure. And yet, the dir...
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Why Do So Many Japanese Retirees Become Soba Masters?

SOBAGIRI RAKUJYO In Japan, there’s a curious and often heartwarming trend. After years of commuting, overtime, and corporate life, some Japanese salarymen retire and suddenly… take up soba-making by hand. Their friends chuckle. Their kids roll their eyes. “Seriously? Dad’s becoming a soba chef now?” But behind the jokes lies something very real: the quiet joy of working with your hands, and the meditative rhythm of turning buckwheat flour into something deeply nourishing. What Is Soba? Soba noodles are thin, light noodles made mainly from buckwheat flour, often mixed with a bit of wheat flour for elasticity. A common blend is 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat, known in Japan as ni-hachi soba . Soba lovers often debate the ideal flour ratio like wine lovers debate grape blends. You can eat soba hot in a savory broth or cold with dipping sauce — it's enjoyed all year but plays an especially symbolic role on New Year’s Eve, when toshikoshi soba is eaten to mark the transition to th...
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The Most "Unassuming" Ward in Tokyo? Exploring Kita Ward, Oji, Autumn in Asukayama Park

Among Tokyo’s 23 wards, there’s one area often called the most unremarkable . That’s Kita Ward — literally “North.” Kita = North. Simple as that. But there’s a reason behind that plain name. As the name suggests, Kita marks the northern gateway to Tokyo . Bordering Saitama Prefecture , it has long been considered the entrance to Edo — the historical Tokyo — since samurai times. The Northern Gateway: Oji Station At the heart of Kita Ward stands Oji Station , one of the city’s northernmost transport hubs. This time, I visited Oji on an autumn day to see what kind of charm this quiet part of Tokyo holds. The Slopes of Oji Tell a Story Step out of Oji Station, and you’ll immediately notice the slope.　Here, the flat streets from downtown Tokyo suddenly rise, reminding you of the city’s dramatic terrain. Today it’s neatly paved, but in the past, this was known as the beginning of a difficult hill road. At the top lies Asukayama Park , created in the 18th century by the eighth...
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