In a previous article about Odaiba, I wrote about walking across the Rainbow Bridge.
Odaiba: Tokyo’s Self-Conscious Playground, Worth a Second Look
Once you reach the other side of that long walk, you arrive at today’s destination: Shibaura.
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| After walking across the Rainbow Bridge, this is the view from Shibaura — Odaiba on the far shore, with the Fuji TV building standing out. |
Warehouses line the streets. There are few pedestrians, and the atmosphere feels a little lonely.
And yet, this is very much central Tokyo. Shibaura is part of Minato Ward—one of the city’s most prestigious areas. Roppongi and Aoyama are not far away at all. Still, the scenery here feels strangely disconnected from the glittering, polished image many people associate with Tokyo.
Shibaura: Almost Something, But Not Quite
That doesn’t mean Shibaura is run-down. Far from it.
Office buildings fill the area, and several well-known companies have their headquarters here. Land prices continue to rise, high-rise condominiums are appearing one after another, and Shibaura is starting to show the face of a high-end residential area along the bay.
At the same time, it is one of the few canal districts in Tokyo. Waterside cafés, small parks, and the futuristic Yurikamome train gliding along elevated tracks give parts of the neighborhood a modern feel. But many buildings are strictly practical—logistics warehouses and industrial facilities. At major intersections, you might even find a single old house standing alone, seemingly forgotten by redevelopment. New glass towers and aging buildings don’t blend so much as they simply coexist, as if no one ever asked them to coordinate. Vacant lots under construction are everywhere.
Among Tokyo’s waterfront areas, places like Odaiba and Toyosu have clear, easy-to-understand identities. Shibaura, by contrast, feels undecided—almost becoming something, but never quite committing. Partially completed redevelopment projects have simply grown old in place, leaving the city full of gaps and loose ends.
Reclaimed Land and the Scent of Edo-Era Tides
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| “View of Shibaura” (1856), woodblock print by Utagawa Hiroshige |
Shibaura’s story begins as a small fishing village along the coast during the Edo period.
The shallow waters here were rich fishing grounds, supplying seafood to Edo (today’s Tokyo). Some of it was even presented to the shogun’s household. The word ura means a small inlet where the sea cuts into the land—a reminder that this quiet office district was once a bustling “kitchen of the sea.”
From the Meiji period (late 19th century) onward, large-scale river improvement projects at the mouth of the Sumida River produced massive amounts of earth, which were used to reclaim land. Like much of Tokyo’s bay area, Shibaura itself is artificial ground. Its oddly shaped blocks, surrounded by canals, still reflect the layered history of reclamation, clearly visible on a map.
Edo-Style Seafood and a Forgotten Geisha District
In the early Showa period(1920s–30s), Shibaura flourished as a gateway to Tokyo Port. Elegant restaurants and entertainment districts appeared, including the famous Shibaura Gajoen. Geisha gathered at traditional Japanese restaurants, and the area became a playground for the wealthy.
Just a short walk from a busy intersection, a beautiful traditional building suddenly appears: the former Shibaura Kenban, built in 1936 and now the Minato City Traditional Culture Exchange Hall. A kenban was an office that managed geisha bookings and entertainment expenses. This is the only surviving kenban building in Tokyo.
After World War II, as Japan entered its period of rapid economic growth, Shibaura left its role as a geisha district behind and transformed into a full-fledged industrial zone. Factories and logistics companies moved in, supporting Japan’s economy in a very practical way.
You may recognize the name Toshiba, one of Japan’s most famous electronics manufacturers, known globally for home appliances and, in the early 2000s, laptop computers like the dynabook. The company’s name comes from a combination of “Tokyo” and “Shibaura.” Although Toshiba has faced major restructuring in recent years, the name itself is a reminder of how deeply Shibaura is tied to Japan’s industrial history (even the beloved Dynabook business is gone now!).
Interestingly, the former kenban building later served as simple lodging for dockworkers employed by logistics companies—quietly reflecting the many layers of change this neighborhood has experienced.
Bubble-Era Nights: The Brief Madness of Juliana’s Tokyo
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| This building once hosted Juliana’s Tokyo, a symbol of the bubble era. The bowling alley dates back to that time. |
“For work by day, asleep by night.”
For a long time, Shibaura was exactly that kind of industrial district. But during Japan’s economic bubble of the late 1980s and early 1990s, it briefly became one of the hottest nightlife spots in Tokyo.
On May 15, 1991, the disco Juliana’s Tokyo opened suddenly in the middle of Shibaura’s warehouse district. Fans with feathered decorations and dancers in body-conscious outfits flooded the club, turning it into a nationwide phenomenon.
By day, the streets belonged to trucks and shipping containers. By night, a completely different world appeared. Public transportation was scarce, convenience stores were nonexistent, and exhausted clubgoers reportedly wandered the dark streets at dawn in search of taxis.
Like a fragile flower blooming on empty land near the city center, the excitement vanished just as quickly as it appeared. When the bubble burst, Shibaura returned to silence. Today, the building houses a retro bowling alley—operated since the Juliana days—and car dealerships. In the parking lot, traces of the original entrance can still be spotted.
Shibaura Today: Engineering, Not Disco
Ask younger generations what comes to mind when they hear “Shibaura,” and the answer is no longer a disco. It’s Shibaura Institute of Technology, a well-known engineering university often mentioned in connection with corporate research and technology news.
It isn’t flashy, but its reputation is solid. Known nationwide as a university with strong employment prospects, it projects a remarkably serious image—quite a contrast to the dancers of the 1990s.
There’s one ironic twist, though: the university’s main campus is actually in Toyosu. Shibaura itself has no campus at all. A university that doesn’t physically exist here still supports the area’s image—an irony that feels perfectly fitting for Shibaura.
Everyday Life Surrounded by Canals
Today, Shibaura is a quiet waterfront area filled with high-rise apartments and office buildings. Crowds are rare, and the streets are wide. The most iconic spot is Shibaura Island, an artificial island surrounded by canals.
With parks, supermarkets, cafés, and gyms, the area f
eels designed for daily life. In the mornings and evenings, residents jog along the water or walk their dogs. The restrained level of development makes the neighborhood comfortable and calm.
That said, some residents mention the inconvenience of everyday shopping, and others point out that limited housing supply keeps prices high.
Unlike Toyosu or Ariake, there are no massive commercial complexes. Unlike Odaiba, there is no overtly artificial excitement. And unlike Tsukuda or Tsukishima, there is little visible old-town culture. From the outside, it may seem like a place “not worth going out of your way to visit.” But that openness—those empty spaces—may be exactly what defines Shibaura.
A City Slowly Moving Forward
Even Shibaura is beginning to change. The most talked-about project is BLUE FRONT SHIBAURA, now under construction.
On the former site of Toshiba’s headquarters, twin towers designed by architect Fumihiko Maki—known internationally for projects like 4 World Trade Center in New York—are rising. One tower was completed in February 2025, while the second is scheduled for completion around 2030. The surrounding area is also being redeveloped, with promenades planned to connect central Tokyo and the waterfront.
Will Shibaura finally move forward, or will it remain forever “in progress”? The desire for change exists alongside a quiet affection for how the area is now.
If you cross the Rainbow Bridge from Odaiba, consider stopping here before heading deeper into the city. Shibaura isn’t packed with landmarks, but as a relaxed walking route between downtown Tokyo and the bay, it has its own charm. With space to breathe, you may just find your own version of Shibaura—and sketch your own picture of a city still becoming itself.
Places to Visit in Shibaura
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Rainbow Bridge & Shibaura Pier
Enjoy the bridge both by walking across it and by looking up at it from below. On the Shibaura side, the circular structure known as the “Shibaura Loop” is especially striking at night. -
Canal Promenade & Tokyo Bay Cruise
Take a relaxed walk along the canals. Ferries depart from nearby piers to Odaiba, Toyosu, and even Asakusa. -
Former Shibaura Kenban (Minato City Traditional Culture Exchange Hall)
A rare surviving building connected to geisha culture. A small café is also available. -
BLUE FRONT SHIBAURA
Only one of the twin towers is complete so far, but restaurants are already open. Even unfinished, it gives a glimpse of Shibaura’s future.
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