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Sugamo – Strolling Through “Grandma’s Harajuku”


In Tokyo, there’s a neighborhood affectionately nicknamed “Grandma’s Harajuku.”

If Harajuku is the go-to spot for trendy teen girls, this is where older women gather to shop, eat, and catch up with friends.

If that nickname doesn’t exactly make your heart skip a beat, that’s understandable — it’s not for everyone. You might be tempted to move on. But wait just a second… this place is surprisingly charming.

At the heart of Sugamo lies Jizō-dōri Shopping Street, a lively stretch lined with old-fashioned stores, temples, and friendly locals. Walk a little, and you’ll naturally slow down to match the relaxed pace of the street. Here are some spots worth checking out.

Jizō-dōri Shopping Street

Stretching about 800 meters with roughly 200 shops, this is Sugamo’s main artery. The variety is impressive — traditional sweet shops, delis, clothing boutiques, and even specialty stores selling health goods.
Some shops cater specifically to active seniors, offering walking canes, rollators, and other mobility aids — a detail that brings the “Grandma’s Harajuku” nickname to life. On certain days of the month, the street hosts lively festivals, with food stalls and street performances adding to the cheerful atmosphere.

Togenuki Jizō (Kōgan-ji Temple)

This temple, officially named Kōgan-ji, is the most famous landmark on the street. The statue of Jizō Bosatsu inside is affectionately called Togenuki Jizō, or “the thorn-removing Jizō,” and is believed to help with various ailments.

Because of its reputation for healing, it draws many elderly visitors. You’ll often see people wafting incense smoke from the large bronze burner toward their sore joints, backs, or shoulders — a practice also seen at temples like Sensō-ji in Asakusa, but here it is closely tied to prayers for good health.



Another popular ritual is washing the Arai Kannon statue. Visitors gently scrub the part of the statue that corresponds to their own pain, hoping for recovery. Lines often form as people wait their turn.

Shinshō-ji Temple



Located near the entrance of Jizō-dōri, this Shingon Buddhist temple is known for its impressive 6-meter-tall Jizō Bosatsu statue, watching over the street. Seasonal flowers — cherry blossoms in spring, red leaves in autumn — make it a peaceful spot to pause away from the bustle.

Japan’s Most Famous Red Underwear – Sugamo Maruji




One of Sugamo’s quirkiest specialties is bright red underwear, and Sugamo Maruji is the undisputed champion. The massive sign reading “Japan’s No. 1 Red Underpants” has become a local landmark.

The tradition comes from the belief that red clothing wards off evil and brings longevity — a color also worn during the Japanese kanreki (60th birthday) celebration. Over time, red underwear became a symbol of health and good fortune.

Some even say — though not scientifically proven — that wearing red underwear lifts your mood and benefits mental well-being. Inside, you’ll find everything from roomy briefs and socks to children’s sizes, all in vivid crimson. Foreign tourists have started snapping them up as unique souvenirs.

Shio Daifuku Sweet Shops



As you stroll along Jizō-dōri, you’ll notice the sweet aroma of traditional Japanese confections wafting through the air. Among them are shops specializing in shio daifuku, soft rice cakes filled with sweet red bean paste with a light touch of salt. While the signature treats are the main draw, these shops are also classic examples of old-fashioned confectionery stores commonly found in historic shopping streets. Perfect for a snack or a souvenir, they offer a taste of a nostalgic Tokyo that has endured over decades.

Bargain Clothing Stores





Sugamo’s clothing shops focus on comfort, functionality, and affordability. Expect loose-fitting styles in soft fabrics, ideal for seniors. Friendly shopkeepers often strike up casual conversations, making shopping here as warm and personal as the clothes themselves.

Tokiwa Shokudō



A long-loved local diner serving hearty Japanese set meals, Tokiwa Shokudō is a prime example of the traditional eateries often found in old shopping streets. While standout dishes like the winter oyster fry are must-tries, the real charm lies in the home-style fare and welcoming atmosphere. Patrons come not only for the food but also for a glimpse of a bygone era — everyday life that has endured amid the changing city.

Visiting Sugamo

Since many shops cater to older customers, they tend to close early in the evening. That said, cross the main road and you’ll find lively nightlife areas open late, so you can enjoy Sugamo from day into night.

Grandma’s Harajuku warmly welcomes visitors of all ages and nationalities, and at the same time, it’s a place where the energy and vitality of active seniors infuse the streets, creating a bright, lively, and uplifting atmosphere. If your curiosity is even slightly piqued, it’s definitely worth a visit.

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Location: 日本、〒170-0002 東京都豊島区巣鴨

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