On August 23, 2025, the 66th Tokyo Koenji Awa Odori kicked off. I joined the first day and experienced Koenji’s streets filled with the sound of drums, shamisen, and the powerful shouts of “Yatto-sa!”. In this post, I’d like to look back on that excitement and share the unique charm of this summer festival.
About Koenji
Koenji is one of Tokyo’s most popular neighborhoods among young people. It combines easy access to central Tokyo with a retro, affordable residential feel. The area is also known for its live music venues, vintage clothing stores, and subculture vibe. But on one weekend in late August, the entire town transforms into a stage for Awa Odori.
What is Awa Odori?
| The shopping streets are completely filled with people and overflowing with excitement |
Although Koenji has become synonymous with Awa Odori, the festival was not born in Tokyo. Its roots are in Tokushima, historically called “Awa,” on the island of Shikoku. “Odori” means “Dance” in Japanese .
There are also deeper cultural roots. Some scholars connect it to Buddhist “odori nenbutsu” (dancing chants for salvation) and shōryō-odori (spirit dances to honor ancestors), which gradually evolved into a more festive and entertaining style.
The Dance and the Music
Awa Odori has two distinct styles: the vigorous and powerful male dance, and the elegant, graceful female dance often performed in distinctive folded hats. Dancers move in formation to the lively sounds of shamisen, drums, and flutes. Each troupe adds its own rhythm and sometimes modern arrangements, while the syncopated gongs and alternating drum beats create a sound that lingers in your memory.
History of the Koenji Festival
While Awa Odori is performed in several parts of Tokyo, Koenji is by far the most famous. The festival began in 1957 as a way to revitalize the local shopping streets. Today, it has grown into a major summer event drawing more than one million spectators over two days.
The festival features eight performance stages around Koenji Station. From the main boulevards and covered arcades to narrow neighborhood alleys, dance troupes from across Japan perform for the crowds.
How to Experience It
| An energy-charged gateway to the festival — the Red Bull gate amplifies the excitement. |
Unlike some festivals, Koenji’s Awa Odori is not designed for spectators to jump in and join the dance. The streets are narrow and carefully managed for safety, so the focus is on watching the skilled troupes—some even traveling from Tokushima —to perform their highly practiced routines.
Still, part of the charm is seeing the diversity: from professional dancers to small children giving their best. The result is a lively atmosphere where everyone can feel included.
Some join in the dance and sweat with passion, others watch quietly with their families, someone enjoys the music alone with a glass in hand, while friends and couples share the rhythm together. In the same flow of music and movement, people of all ages and backgrounds inhabit the same space, carried by the same beat.
So why is Koenji’s Awa Odori so popular? To me, the answer is a sense of unity. Dancers, spectators, and the shopping district all come together, creating an atmosphere that blends nostalgia with raw passion.
Koenji has transformed Tokushima’s tradition into something we can all share. The echo of the drums and flutes now beats within each of us, as our dance — Awa Odori.
Nights in Koenji
Even if you’re not following the parade, you can enjoy the festival simply by soaking in the sounds of the drums and gongs while sipping a drink outdoors. Koenji is already famous for its bars and izakaya, and during Awa Odori the celebration spills into the streets. The excitement lasts long after the dancing ends—the summer night in Koenji is far from over.
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