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Kiyosumi-Shirakawa — A Downtown Neighborhood of Gardens and Coffee




When people think of Tokyo, places like Shibuya or Shinjuku usually come to mind. But if you venture just a little further, you’ll find areas where the city’s noise fades and time seems to slow down. One such place is Kiyosumi-Shirakawa.



Here, a branch of the Sumida River creates a gentle waterway that defines the townscape. Rooted in Edo-period downtown culture and shaped by its riverside setting, the neighborhood once thrived with logistics companies and small factories. Today, while still retaining its traditional atmosphere, it has also become known for its art and coffee culture.

Within walking distance of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa are Ryogoku, home of sumo wrestling, and the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, making it a convenient base for exploring.

The Serenity of Kiyosumi Garden


No visit to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is complete without stopping by Kiyosumi Garden. Originally created in the Edo period and later restored by Yataro Iwasaki, founder of the Mitsubishi conglomerate, this strolling-style Japanese garden with ponds and miniature landscapes once even served as a refuge during the Great Kanto Earthquake.


Centered around a large pond, the grounds feature artificial hills, dry landscapes, and striking ornamental stones brought from all over Japan. Seasonal flowers brighten the scenery—irises and hydrangeas in spring, autumn foliage later in the year. Highlights include the lakeside Ryotei Pavilion and stepping-stone paths across the water.

Here’s a tip: Japanese gardens are designed as compact worlds of beauty, so there areendless photo opportunities. 

The garden even offers traditional wagasa umbrellas for rent, perfect for capturing a picture that feels like stepping back in time. Quiet and atmospheric, this garden is a true hidden gem.

A Neighborhood of Coffee

Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is not only about waterways and gardens—it has also become Tokyo’s coffee capital. Small roasteries and unique cafés are scattered throughout, drawing coffee enthusiasts from near and far.

One of the biggest sparks for this boom was the opening of the Blue Bottle Coffee Kiyosumi Shirakawa Roastery & Café. Its high ceilings and minimalist design create an airy atmosphere, where visitors can enjoy freshly brewed coffee while watching baristas at work—a favorite spot for photography and social media.

Also worth a visit is The Cream of the Crop Coffee Kiyosumi Roastery, located near the Museum of Contemporary Art. Known as the first café in the area to introduce a full-scale roasting facility, it offers a special experience of sipping coffee while watching beans being roasted. It’s a short walk from the station, but well worth the trip.



Riverside Refreshments at CLANN BY THE RIVER


Kiyosumi-Shirakawa’s charm also lies in its riverside scenery. Right along the water sits CLANN BY THE RIVER, a café and brewery that is part of a hotel but open to the public.


Here, you can enjoy locally roasted coffee and light meals in a bright, open space. What makes it unique is the in-house brewery, producing craft beer that you can sip while gazing out at the river. By day it feels like a cozy café, and by night it transforms into a lively beer bar—a perfect way to experience the riverside atmosphere.

Stepping Back to Edo at the Fukagawa Edo Museum

Another must-see is the Fukagawa Edo Museum, which recreates a townscape from late-Edo-period Fukagawa-Sagamachi. The streets are lined with merchant houses, white-walled storehouses, and even a fire watchtower.

Step into the narrow alleys to find rows of commoners’ row houses, complete with daily tools and furnishings that bring Edo-period life to vivid reality. With its boats floating in canals and authentic wooden architecture, the museum lets you immerse yourself in the atmosphere of old downtown Edo.

A Hub of Art and Lifestyle


Beyond gardens and coffee, Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is also a center for art and design. Former warehouses have been converted into studios and galleries, attracting artists from Japan and abroad. The nearby　offers a striking contrast to the garden’s tranquility with its bold, modern exhibitions.



Don’t miss Babaghuri, a lifestyle shop created by designer Jurgen Lehl. Its ivy-covered renovated building makes a strong impression, and inside you’ll find beautifully crafted household goods and furniture. A leisurely stroll through the area brings plenty of chances to discover art, design, and handcrafts.

In Conclusion

Kiyosumi-Shirakawa may not dazzle with neon lights, but it offers a rare blend of traditional Japanese garden beauty, modern coffee culture, and vibrant art. Spend the day wandering its streets: begin with the calm of Kiyosumi Garden, pause for coffee at a roastery, explore Edo life at the museum, and finish with craft beer by the river.

If your Tokyo itinerary has room for something quieter and more atmospheric, this neighborhood is well worth a visit.

 

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