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| The river’s level is above the zero mark—a visual reminder of how high waters can rise. |
The Signboard in Edogawa
Here’s a photo I took in Edogawa Ward, Tokyo. At first glance, it just looks like an electronic display. But what do you think it’s showing?
In fact, this board indicates the current water level of the Arakawa River. And far above it, you’ll notice another mark—showing how high the floodwaters once reached during a major flood in the past.
Neighborhoods Lower than the River
As you walk through eastern Tokyo—places like Edogawa or Kōtō Ward—you may spot these kinds of signs. And if you look up, you might see a marker, high overhead, showing the past floodwater level.
It’s a quiet but sobering reminder: some neighborhoods here actually sit lower than the surface of the river.
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| The Great Flood caused by the Arakawa River breach in 1910 (from Edogawa City’s official website) |
Historically, eastern Tokyo was a vast wetland of rivers, marshes, and ponds. Centuries of flood control projects and land reclamation transformed it into firm ground, but traces of the old landscape remain.
Because of this, flood warnings and evacuation notices are relatively common in these wards. In some places, local governments even distribute flyers telling residents the exact elevation of their homes above sea level.
That said—rest assured. Tokyo’s flood prevention measures are among the most advanced in the world. Even if you happen to get caught in heavy rain during your visit, the chance of any real danger is extremely low.
How Landforms Shape Culture
Tokyo’s terrain has influenced far more than flood risk—it has shaped communities, culture, and the way neighborhoods developed. Even today, you can still sense this relationship when exploring the city on foot.
Tokyo is a patchwork of uplands and lowlands, connected by countless slopes and stairways. These natural elevation changes have long affected where people chose to live, where commerce gathered, and what each neighborhood looks and feels like.
“Yamanote” and “Shitamachi” – Tokyo’s Historic Divide
Historically, Tokyo was broadly divided into two cultural zones:
Yamanote – Literally “mountain hand,” referring to the uplands. These were the domains of samurai and the upper classes, marked by broad streets, embassies, and refined cafés. Today, many loosely think of the Yamanote area as the districts encircled by the JR Yamanote Line, Tokyo’s loop railway. It’s not a precise definition, but it reflects how geography and transport overlap to shape identity.
Shitamachi – The “low city” by the riverside. Traditionally the home of merchants and craftsmen, with a lively, community-driven spirit.
While the boundaries have blurred, their atmospheres remain. Minato and Shibuya still carry Yamanote sophistication, while Asakusa embodies Shitamachi pride and soul.
In Shitamachi especially, retro signboards, old izakaya pubs, and seasonal festivals keep traditions alive. Even new businesses often borrow design cues that highlight the neighborhood’s identity. And between the two zones lie slopes—so fascinating that some walkers dedicate their explorations entirely to tracing Tokyo’s countless hills and stairways.
Shitamachi – The Soul of the Lowlands
Flat, bustling, and steeped in tradition, Shitamachi neighborhoods grew along rivers and canals. In the Edo period, they were home to merchants, artisans, and entertainers. Narrow streets still hum with life, lined with small shops, old temples, and retro pubs. Festivals are loud, colorful, and community-driven—often with centuries of history.
Examples:
- Asakusa
The heart and soul of Shitamachi, along the low banks of the Sumida River. Famous for Sensō-ji Temple, giant red lanterns, and lively markets—always deeply connected with the river. - Yanaka
Located on the border between uplands and lowlands, a “town of steps and slopes” where alleys twist and stairways climb. The Yuyake-dandan—literally “Twilight Stairs”—is an iconic viewpoint, symbolizing this terrain. At its foot spreads Yanaka Ginza, a retro shopping street. This blend of everyday life and nostalgia makes Yanaka a beloved Shitamachi district. - Kiyosumi-Shirakawa
A former warehouse district in the lowlands, surrounded by the Arakawa and Sumida rivers. Once sustained by water transport, its canals and warehouses remain, even as the area has reinvented itself as a hub of coffee and art.
Yamanote – The Grace of the Heights
Perched on hills and plateaus, the Yamanote areas were historically home to samurai and the upper classes. Streets are wider, greenery more abundant, and the pace more relaxed. Even today, these neighborhoods project an air of refinement—embassies, international schools, and serene residences mix with stylish cafés and boutiques.
Examples:
- Minato Ward
Arisugawa-no-miya Memorial Park in Minato Ward, once the residence of imperial princes, today a serene public garden.
At the eastern edge of the Musashino Plateau, with neighborhoods like Akasaka and Azabu spreading over gentle hills. Known for its many slopes offering views down over the city. Embassies and skyscrapers rise on the uplands, while valleys hide local shopping streets. - Daikanyama
A fashionable hilltop neighborhood above the Shibuya River valley. Climbing the slopes reveals quiet residential streets and design-focused cafés—a stylish “highland town.” - Shibuya / Shōtō
Omotesandō – Known as Tokyo’s ‘Champs-Élysées
From the low basin of Shibuya Station, a short climb up stairs and slopes leads to the leafy luxury enclave of Shōtō. Its perch above the Shibuya River valley gives it a unique quietness and sense of exclusivity.
The City of Slopes
Tokyo’s terrain has been softened by centuries of development, making its natural features less obvious. Yet its countless slopes and stairways still reveal the city’s hidden topography. There are even enthusiasts who walk the city purely to enjoy its hills.
So when you explore Tokyo, take a moment to notice the slopes and steps around you. You may find yourself sensing how the land’s rises and falls have shaped the city’s culture and everyday life for centuries.
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