Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

Koshimaki buildings  line the front of the  Imperial Palace moat , preserving the scenic view Tokyo is a city where the old and the new manage to coexist with surprising ease. Buildings are constantly being torn down and rebuilt, yet the past is never entirely discarded. Kosimaki architecture” in Tokyo wraps modern buildings with historic facades like skirt , preserving memory while balancing urban redevelopment One of the clearest examples of this balancing act is an architectural approach affectionately—if a bit humorously—called “ koshimaki architecture .” Just as a  koshimaki , the cloth wrap in  traditional Japanese dress , circles the waist, a “koshimaki building”—or “skirt building” in English—shows how this architectural style is applied to an individual structure, making a modern building appear as though it has wrapped itself in an older facade. The nickname stuck because it captures both the visual effect and Tokyo’s dry sense of humor. A Skyscraper ...

  When people think of autumn in Tokyo, the first image that comes to mind is surely the Ginkgo(icho) Avenue of Meiji Jingu Gaien . Four rows of ginkgo trees stand in perfect alignment on both sides of the walkway, stretching straight into the distance. With two rows along the roadway and two rows inside the pedestrian path, this distinctive double-layered arrangement emphasizes the perspective lines, creating the sensation of being drawn into a golden tunnel as you walk. The most beautiful period usually arrives in late November . The leaves take on their deepest golden hue, softly reflecting the sunlight so that the entire street seems wrapped in a warm golden glow. But precisely because of that beauty, Gaien in autumn is always packed with people. Cafés have long lines, the sidewalks are constantly crowded, and the crosswalks are filled with people as if the traffic light were permanently red. You’ll often see security staff shouting themselves hoarse—“Please don’t stop in ...

  Just a 20-minute walk from central Asakusa , the grounds of Tamahime Inari Shrine are now lined with dozens of stalls selling shoes and leather goods , drawing large crowds of visitors. This is the Kutsu no Megumi Matsuri Ichi (kutsu means “shoes” in Japanese) , a two-day footwear and leather market held from today, the 22nd, through the 23rd.It is a long-running event that began in 1974, hosted by the down-to-earth Tamahime Inari Shrine in Tokyo’s old downtown district. A Shrine Loved by Shoemakers For decades, this area was home to clusters of leather workshops and shoe factories. After World War II, the wider Asakusa district grew into one of Japan’s densest concentrations of small shoe and leather workshops, and Kiyokawa became the everyday living quarter for many of those craftsmen—simple homes that often doubled as their workspaces. Although the number of factories has decreased over the years, the district still remains one of Japan’s leading production hubs for lea...

Today is November 15, the peak of Japan’s Shichi-Go-San season. If you visit a shrine around this time, you’ll notice families lined up for blessings, children dressed in colorful kimono, and a warm, festive atmosphere that feels uniquely Japanese. “Seven-Five-Three”: A Name as Literal as It Is Charming In Japanese, Shichi-Go-San is literally just a string of numbers: Seven-Five-Three. Yet anyone in Japan instantly knows that these numbers refer to a special children's celebration. Traditionally, the ages were: 3-year-olds (boys and girls) 5-year-old boys 7-year-old girls These categories came from ancient coming-of-age rituals : Kamioki (Age 3): Children began growing out their hair. Hakamagi (Age 5): Boys wore a hakama for the first time. Obitoki (Age 7): Girls began wearing a formal obi belt. Modern families often still follow this pattern, but more people now focus on the spirit of wishing for a child’s healthy growth , regardless of strict age or ...

  Just after midnight, as November 12 begins,  the first drum of the night echoes through Ootori Shrine in Senzoku, near Asakusa in Tokyo ’ s Taito Ward . It marks the opening of  Tori no Ichi (literally, ‘ Market of the Rooster ’) , one of Japan ’ s most famous autumn festivals. The “ Day of the Rooster ” and the Lucky Market Tori no Ichi is held every November on the so-called “ Day of the Rooster ” ( Tori no Hi ). This day is determined by the traditional Chinese zodiac calendar . The zodiac consists of 12 animals that rotate over a 12-year cycle. The same system also applies to days — each day is assigned a zodiac animal, and every 12 days, the “ Day of the Rooster ” comes again. Because of this, some years have two or even three “ Days of the Rooster ” in November. In 2025 , the first ( Ichi no Tori ) falls on November 12, and the second ( Ni no Tori ) on November 24 . Tonight, until midnight, marks the very first Tori no Ichi of the year. Ootori Sh...