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Gathering Luck in Tokyo: A Night at Asakusa Tori no Ichi

 

Just after midnight, as November 12 begins, the first drum of the night echoes through Ootori Shrine in Senzoku, near Asakusa in Tokyo’s Taito Ward.

It marks the opening of Tori no Ichi(literally, ‘Market of the Rooster’), one of Japan’s most famous autumn festivals.

The “Day of the Rooster” and the Lucky Market


Tori no Ichi is held every November on the so-called “Day of the Rooster” (Tori no Hi).

This day is determined by the traditional Chinese zodiac calendar. The zodiac consists of 12 animals that rotate over a 12-year cycle. The same system also applies to days — each day is assigned a zodiac animal, and every 12 days, the “Day of the Rooster” comes again.
Because of this, some years have two or even three “Days of the Rooster” in November. In 2025, the first (Ichi no Tori) falls on November 12, and the second (Ni no Tori) on November 24.
Tonight, until midnight, marks the very first Tori no Ichi of the year.

Ootori Shrine and the Origins of the Festival

Ootori Shrine enshrines two deities from Japanese mythology: Ame-no-Hiwashi-no-Mikoto and Yamato Takeru-no-Mikoto, and has a history spanning several centuries.
During the Edo period (17th–19th centuries), the shrine’s annual festival gradually developed into what is now known as Tori no Ichi.
It became a lively autumn fair for praying for good fortune and business prosperity, spreading throughout the Kanto region.
Today, major Tori no Ichi festivals are also held at Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku and Kotohira-Ootori Shrine in Yokohama.

The Lucky Rake: Kumade

When I arrived around 7 p.m., the shrine grounds were crowded with worshippers and festival-goers enjoying food and drinks at the stalls.
The most distinctive symbol of Tori no Ichi is the kumade — literally “bear’s hand.”


Originally a simple bamboo rake used to gather fallen leaves, it became a decorative charm when adorned with small gold coins, beckoning cats, and figures of the Seven Lucky Gods.

The kumade symbolizes “gathering fortune and customers.”
Even the shrine’s name, Ootori (“large bird”), carries auspicious meanings, suggesting “grabbing success” or “taking a lot.”

All around the shrine, stalls sell kumade in all sizes — from small charms to enormous custom-made ones for businesses.
These large kumade are often pre-ordered months in advance, with the buyer’s name displayed.
The scene is so iconic that it appears on Japanese TV news every year.

For example, Sanrio, the company behind Hello Kitty and Cinnamoroll, has long been known to display a huge kumade decorated with popular characters and golden ornaments.
Visitors enjoy photographing it and admiring the blend of traditional festival culture with kawaii pop culture.
Corporate kumade like these symbolize not only prosperity but also connection to the community.

Clapping and Calls — The Sound of Edo
Whenever a kumade is sold, the seller and buyer perform a rhythmic hand-clapping ceremony called tejime.
It concludes with a loud shout:
“Shōbai hanjō!” — meaning “Wishing you prosperous business!”

The claps and shouts fill the shrine, creating a lively, communal atmosphere.
It is unmistakably Edo-style — vibrant, spirited, and full of energy.

Growing the Rake, Growing Fortune

Kumade come in every size — from palm-sized charms to rakes taller than a person.
Prices range from a few thousand yen to over one million yen for the most elaborate designs.

Traditionally, people buy slightly larger kumade each year, symbolizing the growth of their luck and success.

Local shopkeepers and business owners proudly carry their new kumade home while returning the previous year’s to the shrine.
Old kumade are purified and burned in a ceremonial ritual, continuing the cycle of fortune.

Returning last year’s kumade — giving back luck before welcoming new fortune

For First-Time Visitors



First-timers need not worry — you don’t have to start with a large kumade.
Many visitors, including tourists, buy a small charm or keychain-sized kumade as a keepsake.
Starting small and planning to buy a slightly larger one on your next visit is a lovely tradition — your own story of “growing fortune.”

For those starting a new business or project, a small kumade serves as a symbolic charm.
You can wish for success and promise yourself that next year you’ll return for a bigger one.
Even the smallest kumade can hold the biggest hopes.

A Festival that Shines into the Night


On November 12, and again on the final day, November 24, the sounds of drums and hand-claps echo through Asakusa late into the night.

Some come to pray, others to eat, drink, and celebrate with friends under the lanterns.
But everyone, in their own way, comes to gather a little piece of good fortune.

If you are in Tokyo in November, don’t miss this dazzling night market of luck —
Tori no Ichi at Ootori Shrine, where tradition, business, and joy come together under the autumn sky.




 

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