When people think of autumn in Tokyo, the first image that comes to mind is surely the Ginkgo(icho) Avenue of Meiji Jingu Gaien. Four rows of ginkgo trees stand in perfect alignment on both sides of the walkway, stretching straight into the distance. With two rows along the roadway and two rows inside the pedestrian path, this distinctive double-layered arrangement emphasizes the perspective lines, creating the sensation of being drawn into a golden tunnel as you walk.
The most beautiful period usually arrives in late November.
The leaves take on their deepest golden hue, softly reflecting the sunlight so
that the entire street seems wrapped in a warm golden glow.
But precisely because of that beauty, Gaien in autumn is always packed with people.
Cafés have long lines, the sidewalks are constantly crowded, and the crosswalks are filled with people as if the traffic light were permanently red. You’ll often see security staff shouting themselves hoarse—“Please don’t stop in the roadway!”—at people stepping into the street to take photos. Even that scene has become one of the familiar “Gaien-in-autumn” clichés.
What Is “Meiji Jingu Gaien”?
The official name of the area is Meiji Jingu Gaien, a vast green zone created in the Taishō era as a “national project to commemorate Emperor Meiji.” At its center stands the imposing Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery (Seitoku Kinen Kaigakan), surrounded by a spacious layout of sports facilities—baseball stadiums, a rugby field, tennis courts, and more.
What makes Gaien truly unique is its deliberate design to create a sense of openness right in the middle of the city.
Despite being located in the heart of business districts such as Aoyama and Shinanomachi, once you step into Gaien the sky suddenly opens up, and the straight ginkgo-lined axis unfolds with breathtaking clarity.
The Ginkgo Avenue was planted in 1923, conceived as the central axis of the area. For roughly a century, it has served as the defining symbol of autumn in Tokyo.
The area around the ginkgo avenue is one of Tokyo’s most prestigious districts, home to many of Japan’s leading companies as well as major international firms. It’s a place where urban sophistication and a certain quiet elegance coexist in a uniquely balanced way.
Why Are There So Many Ginkgo Trees in Tokyo?
Ginkgo trees can be found throughout Japan; Tokyo does not have a monopoly on them.
Yet the association of “Tokyo = ginkgo” is strong because the trees were planted intensively in highly visible city-center locations.
Ginkgo trees are exceptionally tolerant of urban environments: they withstand exhaust fumes, resist many pests, and endure dry conditions.
They are also said to be fire-resistant thanks to their moisture-rich bark—a reason why large ginkgo trees have survived for centuries on the grounds of temples and shrines.
This characteristic became highly valued during the post–Great Kantō Earthquake reconstruction plan of 1923.
Chosen as “street trees that are fire-resistant and easy to cultivate,” ginkgoes were planted along major Tokyo arteries such as Aoyama-dori, Hibiya-dori, and Yasukuni-dori.
During the postwar reconstruction period, their quick growth again made them useful, leading to their widespread planting across the central districts.
Over time, these layers of history gradually shaped the image of
“Tokyo — the city of ginkgo trees.”
And needless to say, ginkgo trees turn a brilliant gold in autumn.
The sight of urban Tokyo glowing with golden leaves frequently appears in photographs and video footage, further strengthening the association.
We also must not forget the distinctive aroma of ginkgo nuts (ginnan).
It can surprise newcomers, but for many Tokyoites, the moment that scent begins to drift through the streets, it feels like a seasonal signal: “Autumn has arrived.”
In a concrete metropolis where seasonal changes can feel muted, the ginkgo announces autumn not only visually but also through scent.
This sensory memory—touching both sight and smell—is surely another reason the ginkgo has become “the symbol of Tokyo’s autumn.”
Where to Enjoy Ginkgo Trees Slowly
The Gaien avenue is overwhelmingly beautiful, but extremely crowded in autumn.
Standing still is difficult, looking up while walking leads to bumping into people, and security staff constantly warn visitors.
Yet Tokyo's parks, shrines, temples, and university campuses also offer magnificent ginkgo scenery.
Below are a few places where you can enjoy the season more leisurely:
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Ueno Park Area: Historic ginkgo-lined paths surrounding the museums and art institutions.
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The University of Tokyo, Hongo Campus: The ginkgo trees around the Akamon Gate are especially impressive.
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Yoyogi Park: A hidden gem near Gaien. In addition to ginkgoes, the park offers maples, zelkovas, and cherry trees, providing a wide variety of autumn colors.
Yoyogi park
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Koishikawa Korakuen:
A beautifully preserved Edo-period garden featuring ponds, bridges, and seasonal foliage, including vivid ginkgo trees in late autumn. -
Rikugien Garden:
A classic daimyo garden known for its dramatic autumn-light-up events and elegant landscape design. Showa Kinen Park (Tachikawa): Home to one of the largest ginkgo avenues in the country, set within an expansive national park.
When traveling in Tokyo in autumn, you’re likely to encounter ginkgo trees almost anywhere you go.
If you come across a scene you like, take a moment and snap a photo with the ginkgoes—it will become a quintessential Tokyo memory.
So Tokyo’s Symbol Is…? Wait, It Isn’t?
And a small aside to finish. This is the symbol mark of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.
You’ll see it on trams, buses, and public facilities—if you live in Tokyo, you probably see it almost every day.
What does it look like to you?
“Of course it’s a ginkgo leaf!”
—After reading this blog, most people would certainly think so.
But in fact, it isn’t a ginkgo.
According to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, the mark is “an abstract representation of the letter T, the initial of Tokyo,” and not a leaf design.
On social media, posts like
“Wait, it’s not a ginkgo?!”
go viral from time to time, surprising people again and again.
At the same time, Tokyo officially designates the ginkgo as the metropolitan tree. Yet for some reason, the government insists—almost stubbornly—that the symbol mark is “not a ginkgo.” The reason remains a mystery.
Still, the fact that so many people immediately associate the symbol with a ginkgo shows just how deeply the tree has taken root as an emblem of Tokyo.
And full confession: until I researched this column, I myself had always assumed the Tokyo symbol mark was a ginkgo leaf.
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