February 3, Asakusa, Tokyo.
At Sensō-ji Temple, famous figures throw roasted soybeans toward the crowd, praying for good health and protection from misfortune. This is mamemaki—bean throwing—one of the key rituals of Setsubun(節分), a traditional Japanese seasonal event.
The word Setsubun literally means “the division of seasons.”
Today, it refers to the day before the beginning of spring, usually around February 3.
The origins of Setsubun can be traced back to ancient China, where rituals were performed to ward off evil spirits. After the custom reached Japan, similar practices were adopted at the imperial court during the Heian period (794–1185). At that time, a ritual called Tsuina was performed to expel harmful spirits. Modern Setsubun traditions are believed to have grown out of these ceremonies.
Demon Slaying With Beans
The most well-known Setsubun custom is mamemaki, or bean throwing.
As beans are thrown, people chant “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi”—
“Demons out, good fortune in.”
In other words: bad luck, leave the house; happiness, come inside.
The oni(鬼)—demons or ogres—are among the most familiar figures in Japanese folklore. Modern readers may instantly think of the anime Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba (『鬼滅の刃』). Yes—those demons.
Traditionally, soybeans are believed to possess spiritual power as an agricultural staple. They symbolize purity and protection, and are used as a kind of weapon to drive away evil.
Not with swords—but with beans.
Mamemaki is considered a uniquely Japanese custom. Its exact origins are unclear, but it became established among the aristocracy in the medieval period. By the Edo period (from the 17th century onward), it had spread widely among ordinary people and became a household ritual that families could easily perform at home.
Even today, many families continue the tradition. As Setsubun approaches, supermarkets sell packages containing roasted soybeans and oni masks. One adult plays the role of the demon, while children throw beans at them—an annual scene familiar across Japan. There is also a saying that eating the same number of beans as your age will bring good health for the year.
In addition, temples and shrines across the country host large public mamemaki events. In places like Asakusa, actors, sumo wrestlers, and other celebrities often take part. For safety, individually wrapped beans or sweets are usually thrown instead.
The Rise of Ehomaki
In recent years, however, another Setsubun custom has rapidly gained popularity: ehomaki.
On Setsubun, people eat a whole sushi roll while facing the year’s ehō—the lucky direction. The rule is to eat it silently, without speaking, until it is finished.
In 2026, the lucky direction will be south-southeast.
Ehomaki is now widely known across Japan, but as a nationwide tradition it is relatively new. In Tokyo, it is said to have become popular only after the 2000s. The author, for one, did not encounter the custom until adulthood.
Originally, ehomaki was practiced only in limited areas of western Japan, such as Kyoto and Osaka, particularly among merchants and within the world of geisha. In the Kansai region, sushi industry groups are said to have promoted the custom, and by the 1970s it had begun appearing in supermarkets.
What truly brought ehomaki nationwide attention was the role of convenience stores. Sales campaigns tied the custom to seasonal marketing, and within a short time, ehomaki became a familiar part of Setsubun across the country.
| Easy-to-eat ehomaki at a convenience store, from classic styles to tuna-mayo rolls. |
Especially in Tokyo, the practice is sometimes described with a dry sense of humor as “a tradition invented by convenience store chains.”
There may also be a touch of local pride behind the joke—isn’t this really a Kansai custom, not a Tokyo one?
Still, given modern housing conditions and busy lifestyles, eating a sushi roll is often easier than throwing beans.
As a result, recent surveys suggest that more households now observe Setsubun with ehomaki rather than mamemaki.
And perhaps—just perhaps—it is also because a sushi roll simply tastes better than a handful of roasted soybeans.
A ritual of throwing beans to drive out demons, and a relatively new food tradition centered on sushi.
Today, Setsubun stands at the crossroads of these two customs—mamemaki vs. ehomaki—making it a uniquely Japanese seasonal event shaped by both history and modern life.
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