Koh’s Tokyo Dialogue

What is a Yokocho? As you walk through Tokyo, you’ll often come across the word yokocho (よこちょう). Literally, it means “side alley.” But in Tokyo’s urban culture, the term carries a richer meaning. A yokocho is typically a narrow, crowded lane filled with tiny izakaya (pubs), food stalls, and bars, where smoke from charcoal grills drifts through the air. Even places that simply capture this atmosphere are sometimes described as “yokocho-like.” Yokocho districts were rarely part of formal urban planning. Most sprang up around train stations during the chaotic years after World War II, when people set up makeshift stalls and grills wherever crowds gathered. Born not from regulations or zoning but from necessity and human interaction, many yokocho had guerrilla-like origins. Their disorderly energy is exactly what gives them their unique charm. The Rough Charm of Old Yokocho Traditional yokocho retain a gritty appeal that refuses to be polished away. In contrast to neatly redeveloped ...

You probably know Ed Sheeran from hits like Shape of You and Perfect . The guy has fans all over the world, and in Japan, his songs are just as popular—his 2024 stadium tour here was a total smash. And now… wait for it… he’s teaming up with Tokyo’s Oedo Subway Line . Yes, a subway line! Weird? Funny? Totally Tokyo. What’s in a Name? The campaign is called “Oh! Ed!” , and here’s the fun part: it’s a Japanese pun. Oedo Line (大江戸線 / おおえどせん) → sounds like “Oh-Ed” A little trivia: “Edo” was the old name for Tokyo. The prefix “O” in Oedo (大江戸) literally means “great” or “big,” referring to the prosperity and wide reach of old Edo—kind of like saying Greater London (though not in a strict sense, of course). So the “Oedo Line” is literally named after the city’s history and culture. And somehow, “Oedo” ended up sounding exactly like Ed’s name—hence, Oh! Ed! The Oedo Line color, magenta , even matches the theme color of Ed’s new album Play . With all these coincidences stacked togethe...

Tokyo has one of the world’s most extensive train networks, and most travel guides recommend, “get around by train.” However, when you actually visit, you may notice that some places feel too close for a train but a little too far to walk. This is when bicycle sharing becomes very handy. You may find rental bikes near stations, and there are also shops that rent out road bikes. However, the most convenient option for tourists is the share-cycle, with many ports available and the freedom to return bikes at different locations. In recent years, electric-assist bicycles (e-bikes) have become the mainstream, and the number of bike ports has rapidly increased. Many apps now support English, so visitors can easily rent a bike for just a few hours and explore Tokyo freely. In this guide, we will focus on services that cover wide areas of Tokyo and allow you to return bikes at multiple locations. 1. Docomo Bike Share Highlights : Operated by Japan’s largest mobile carrier. Bright red ...

  The river’s level is above the zero mark—a visual reminder of how high waters can rise. The Signboard in Edogawa Here’s a photo I took in Edogawa Ward, Tokyo. At first glance, it just looks like an electronic display. But what do you think it’s showing? In fact, this board indicates the current water level of the Arakawa River. And far above it, you’ll notice another mark—showing how high the floodwaters once reached during a major flood in the past. Neighborhoods Lower than the River As you walk through eastern Tokyo—places like Edogawa or Kōtō Ward—you may spot these kinds of signs. And if you look up, you might see a marker, high overhead, showing the past floodwater level. It’s a quiet but sobering reminder: some neighborhoods here actually sit lower than the surface of the river. The Great Flood caused by the Arakawa River breach in 1910 (from Edogawa City’s official website) Historically, eastern Tokyo was a vast wetland of rivers, marshes, and ponds. Centuries of flood con...

When people think of Tokyo, places like Shibuya or Shinjuku usually come to mind. But if you venture just a little further, you’ll find areas where the city’s noise fades and time seems to slow down. One such place is Kiyosumi-Shirakawa . Here, a branch of the Sumida River creates a gentle waterway that defines the townscape. Rooted in Edo-period downtown culture and shaped by its riverside setting, the neighborhood once thrived with logistics companies and small factories. Today, while still retaining its traditional atmosphere, it has also become known for its art and coffee culture. Within walking distance of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa are Ryogoku, home of sumo wrestling, and the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, making it a convenient base for exploring. The Serenity of Kiyosumi Garden No visit to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is complete without stopping by Kiyosumi Garden . Originally created in the Edo period and later restored by Yataro Iwasaki, founder of the Mitsubishi conglomerat...