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| Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine |
Monzen-Nakacho is In Tokyo’s old downtown(shitamachi) area known as Fukagawa . This neighborhood doesn’t shout for attention with flashy attractions, but it rewards those who walk its streets with a mix of traditional temples, lively shrines, cozy alleyways, and riverside views.
Where the Name Comes From
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| "Main Street” of the Temple Town |
The word monzen literally means “in front of a temple.” In premodern Japan, towns often grew around castles (jokamachi) or around major temples and shrines (monzen-machi). Monzen-Nakacho is a classic example of the latter, and its name still carries that history.
Even today, as soon as you exit the Monzen-Nakacho subway station, you step right into a temple approach lined with traditional sweet shops and souvenir stores welcoming worshippers.
Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do
At the end of the approach stands Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do. Its head temple, Naritasan Shinshoji, is in Chiba Prefecture and is dedicated to Fudo Myo-o, a wrathful Buddhist deity depicted with flames and a fierce expression. Fukagawa Fudo-do was built so that people in Tokyo could worship Fudo Myo-o without traveling all the way to Chiba.
The most striking feature here is the Goma fire ritual. In this esoteric Shingon Buddhist ceremony, priests chant sutras before a blazing fire, burning wooden tablets as offerings to purify misfortunes and fulfill prayers. Standing in the hall, you feel the heat of the flames, hear the rhythmic chanting, and are enveloped in a solemn, almost otherworldly atmosphere.
You may notice names being read aloud over loudspeakers—such as “Mr. ___” or “Company ___.” These are the individuals or groups who have requested prayers, and their names are recited while their offerings are burned in the fire. Remarkably, this ritual is performed almost every day.
On the 28th of each month, the temple hosts a lively fair known as Fudo no Hi (“Day of Fudo”), with food stalls and crowds filling the approach. The biggest event is on January 28, when the Fudo Grand Festival draws huge numbers of visitors for special ceremonies and rice-cake-throwing celebrations.
The Original “Monzen” and Eitai-ji
Interestingly, Monzen-Nakacho’s name does not actually come from Fukagawa Fudo-do. It traces back to Eitai-ji, a large Buddhist temple that once stood here. Eitai-ji was originally built as the guardian temple of nearby Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine, but it was abolished during the Meiji period’s shinbutsu bunri (the government-mandated separation of Shinto and Buddhism).
Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine
A short walk brings you to Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine, the largest Hachiman shrine in Edo (old Tokyo).
Hachiman shrines worship Emperor Ojin (the 15th emperor of Japan, deified as Hondawake no Mikoto), who became associated with martial valor and protection in battles.
Tomioka Hachimangu is famous for the Fukagawa Hachiman Festival in August, one of the three great festivals of Edo along with the Kanda Festival and Sanno Festival. In this dynamic summer event, teams of men carry portable shrines (mikoshi) through the streets while spectators splash them with water—an exhilarating spectacle of energy and tradition.
The shrine is also known as the birthplace of professional sumo tournaments in Edo. In the 17th century, kanjin-zumo—fundraising sumo matches held on shrine grounds—were first organized here. The legacy remains in the form of numerous monuments related to sumo wrestling, including the Yokozuna Stone Monument, which lists all the grand champions, and even a massive stone dedicated to a legendary Edo-period wrestler famed for his enormous size.
Within the shrine grounds, you can also find a place serving Fukagawa-meshi, a local dish from the Edo period. It is made with clams and green onions simmered in miso broth and served over hot rice, or sometimes cooked together with the rice as a mixed style.
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| A well-known restaurant serving Fukagawa-meshi can be found within the shrine grounds |
Alleyways and Local Food
Temples and shrines are not the only draw of Monzen-Nakacho. The neighborhood is also home to countless eateries and retro-style drinking spots.
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| Charming alleyways like this, along with plenty of eateries lining the main streets |
The most atmospheric is Tatsumi Shindo, a ‘yokocho’ alleyway only about 50 meters long but crammed with 32 tiny bars. Stepping inside feels like traveling back to the Showa era (mid-20th century).
Discovering yokocho
For newcomers, the small size of the shops can feel a little intimidating, but simply walking through the alley and soaking in the ambiance is an experience in itself. For something approachable, try New Motsuyoshi, a casual spot specializing in grilled offal skewers.
Eitai-bashi Bridge and the Sumida River
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| Eitai Bridge illuminated at night, with Tokyo Skytree in the background and yakatabune party boats cruising along the river |
A short stroll from the shrine takes you to Eitai-bashi, a bridge spanning the Sumida River.
The original Eitai-bashi was Japan’s first iron bridge. The current version, completed in 1926, was modeled after the Ludendorff Bridge in Germany and is now designated as an Important Cultural Property. By night, the illuminated bridge creates a stunning riverscape that perfectly caps off a day of exploring Fukagawa.
Final Thoughts
Monzen-Nakacho may not appear on every tourist map, but for those who want to experience Tokyo beyond the obvious landmarks, it is a must-visit. Here, you’ll find the essence of Edo-era atmosphere—temples, shrines, alleyway bars, and riverside views—all within walking distance.
It’s also conveniently located near Kiyosumi-Shirakawa and Kiba Park, which I’ve introduced in earlier blog posts.
kiyosumi-shirakawa
Taken together, they make for a perfect day of leisurely exploration in Fukagawa, one of Tokyo’s most evocative districts.
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