When people think of Tsukiji in Tokyo, they immediately recall the world-famous fish market that once stood there.
Back in the Edo period, small fish markets were scattered around Edo (present-day Tokyo). In 1935, the Central Wholesale Market was established in Tsukiji, marking the start of its development as the capital’s major hub for seafood, vegetables, and fruit. Over the decades, Tsukiji grew into the place where fresh seafood from all over Japan gathered. From the dramatic tuna auctions in the inner market to the retail shops and sushi restaurants in the outer market, it created a unique atmosphere. Having such a market right in the heart of a major metropolis was unusual, and it made Tsukiji an irresistible destination for chefs and visitors alike.
For Japanese people, Tsukiji is almost synonymous with “fresh fish.” Even today, restaurants across Tokyo proudly put “Tsukiji” in their names, or display signs boasting “Fresh from Tsukiji!”
| The bustling entrance to Tsukiji’s Outer Market, crowded with shoppers and tourists! |
The turning point came in 2018. The professional wholesale functions — the tuna auctions and wholesale transactions of the inner market (場内市場) — were relocated to Toyosu, a newly developed reclaimed area on the Tokyo Bay waterfront. The outer market (場外市場), where ordinary visitors had always gone, remained in Tsukiji. Still, many worried: would Tsukiji lose its soul and vitality after the move?
To make matters worse, right after the relocation th
e COVID-19 pandemic struck, hitting the restaurant industry hard and causing a sharp drop in foreign tourists. Concerns about Tsukiji’s decline grew even stronger.
| Tsukiji Uogashi: A facility housing numerous seafood retail shops. |
And yet — Tsukiji came roaring back to life.
Walk through today’s Tsukiji and you will be overwhelmed by the crowds. On weekends in particular, the narrow streets are jam-packed with overseas tourists and young Japanese visitors. Restaurants serving tuna bowls, sushi, seafood donburi, or grilled fish all have long lines. But it’s not only about sushi. Tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet), wagashi (traditional sweets), cakes, fruits, and even shops selling knives and kitchenware draw eager customers. With so many options for snacking and shopping as you stroll, Tsukiji now feels like a true “food theme park.”
| Narrow alleys between buildings lined with unique eateries and food stalls. |
Adding to the atmosphere are the lively shouts from shopfronts. Some vendors call out in broken English — “Sushi! Fresh tuna!” — while others switch to Chinese or Korean to reach passing tourists. A mix of languages fills the air, giving Tsukiji a uniquely international buzz. There is no other food street in Tokyo quite like it.
Of course, success brings its own problems. The sheer influx of visitors has led to litter issues and friction with nearby residents. Some locals question whether Tsukiji is becoming too dependent on inbound tourism. It has not declined — but it has undeniably changed, in ways that feel jarring to long-time observers.
So why has Tsukiji managed to thrive again?
One reason is the continuing presence of long-established wholesalers and restaurant businesses. Even after the wholesale functions moved to Toyosu, some companies kept offices in Tsukiji, while others opened small retail shops or restaurants to maintain a presence and use the brand’s power. The popular sushi chain Sushizanmai is one example — its energetic president is famous for winning the first tuna auction of the year, making headlines and reinforcing Tsukiji’s image.
| The tuna sushi stall beside a Sushizanmai shop—a familiar sight in Tsukiji. |
Location is another huge advantage. Tsukiji sits within walking distance of Ginza and Tokyo Station, making it far more convenient than Toyosu. Tourists benefit from the easy access, but so do office workers in the surrounding business districts, who flock to Tsukiji restaurants for lunch. By contrast, Toyosu is only about 4 km away (a 15-minute bus ride), but crossing bridges to the man-made waterfront gives it a psychological sense of distance. Tsukiji feels far more natural as a daily destination.
Alongside food, Tsukiji also attracts people with its cultural and historical sites. Namiyoke Shrine, long regarded as the guardian deity of the market, is still visited by locals and tourists alike for protection from maritime misfortune. Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple provides a calm, spiritual space, with a history dating back to the Edo period — a kind of atmosphere Toyosu, as a newly reclaimed town, simply cannot offer.
| Tsukiji Hongwanji: The massive main hall, incorporating Indian-style architecture, was completed in 1934. |
Ultimately, what keeps Tsukiji alive is its brand power. The name “Tsukiji” still carries weight. Let’s be honest — “Fresh from Tsukiji” just sounds tastier than “Fresh from Toyosu”!
And what of Tsukiji’s future? Redevelopment is already underway on the vast 190,000-square-meter former market site. Plans call for an international conference center and new business facilities. Without the wholesale market, Tsukiji has reinvented itself as a food theme park while simultaneously preparing to become a brand-new urban district. Decline, revival, and redevelopment — Tsukiji embodies Tokyo’s dynamic transformation, watched by its residents with a mix of hope and a touch of unease.
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